Still need help, last chance this is!

Thanks Madness. I'm gonna get the seat done a bit more and then put the other bones back on and just do it! I'll give it a go if it dont' work it don't work, i've tried! If it does then thats cool!

I have already got boots with a 1" heel but was wondering if they could be built up a bit more at the front! Would a cobbler do that?

If not i may have to try the datona boots!

Fuel wise, i've already thought that! Don't fill it up, gotta fuel light so hopefully shouldn't run out!!! then again........ lol

[Nicky S]

Originally Posted by the_lone_wolf

???



how much height do you need to lose?

how small are u ???

I think any normal cobbler could add extra thickness to the sole of your boots.

Cool could try that!

I'm 4ft 8 - 23"inside leg!

[Stu]

Some people have worried about your fork dust seals reaching the lower yokes.
I have just removed the fork cap off a K5 SV fork (so the exact same as your K6) to compress it until it bottoms out. The distance from the top of the dust seal to the top of the fork (remember excl. fork cap which was removed) was 277mm.
So that is the max distance you should have from the bottom of your yoke to the top of the fork (excl. cap)
Unless someone confirms that the spring would stop compressing before the fork bottoms out???
So what's your measurement now with 30mm protruding?

I don't agree with everyone saying that it will necessarily handle badly because it's lowered so much. If it's lowered front & back in the correct proportions (whatever they are) it should be fine.
Although I would agree the more you can remove from your seat the better as it won't affect handling.

Ibby should be an inspiration to you being able to ride a std SV at 5'1"

[yorkie_chris]

Originally Posted by Stu

The distance from the top of the dust seal to the top of the fork (remember excl. fork cap which was removed) was 277mm.


So that is the max distance you should have from the bottom of your yoke to the top of the fork (excl. cap)
Unless someone confirms that the spring would stop compressing before the fork bottoms out???
So what's your measurement now with 30mm protruding?

Are you measuring with the front unloaded? Otherwise preload will affect this.

The spring will not become coil-bound. The hydraulic lock piece is the limit of fork travel with more compression remaining in the spring.

[Stu]

Fork was not in a bike, so yes unloaded.
Fork cap was removed, so the preload was sitting over there >>>> on the floor.
Thanks for confirming spring will not become coil-bound. Whats hydralic lock got to do with it? Ijust pshed the top of the fork into the bottom of the fork until it wouldn't go anymore. i thought it was a physical thing of metal hitting metal inside when it reaches the limit of it's travel.

[yorkie_chris]

Nope it's a plastic piece that's there to provide like a fluid cushion (but it's not compressible, so it just compresses the air in the emulsion of fork oil in use), so as to avoid metal on metal contact.
It's the thing that makes fork leg stick at the bottom when changing fork oil.

Ok I'm lost!

What measurement do you want to know?

if the seats makes a diffference i will lower the forks a bit!

I read somewhere that changing the fork oil to thicker can help with bottoming out when adjusting the forks!

[yorkie_chris]

Not really. Full travel needs to be available. Heavier oil will just mean you need to brake for longer before it hits.