What have you tinkered with today?

[SV650rules]

WTF is ' v twin oil ' ? How does the oil know what sort of engine it is in ? From what I can gather 'Harley v twin oil' seems to be straightforward mineral oil, which is the bottom of the heap as far as oils are concerned....but maybe it suits the agricultural nature of the Milwaukee tractor factory products....

[Dave20046]

Originally Posted by SV650rules

WTF is ' v twin oil ' ? How does the oil know what sort of engine it is in ? From what I can gather 'Harley v twin oil' seems to be straightforward mineral oil, which is the bottom of the heap as far as oils are concerned....but maybe it suits the agricultural nature of the Milwaukee tractor factory products....

That's incorrect. The makers know what bike they are designing it for. Harley's own might be mineral (but I wouldn't put that in any of my bikes), V-Twin formula is designed specifically for shared clutches like the SV has, I've used it for 10+years and my SV clutch has done over 50k without issue.

I'm not saying others aren't fine and lots of bikes have a shared wet clutch , but it's seen me right and other forummers have had issues until switching to it.

[SV650rules]

Originally Posted by Dave20046

That's incorrect. The makers know what bike they are designing it for. Harley's own might be mineral (but I wouldn't put that in any of my bikes), V-Twin formula is designed specifically for shared clutches like the SV has, I've used it for 10+years and my SV clutch has done over 50k without issue.

I'm not saying others aren't fine and lots of bikes have a shared wet clutch , but it's seen me right and other forummers have had issues until switching to it.

Pretty much every bike except IIRC Ducati have a wet clutch, that is why the JASO MA oil spec was introduced, so saying it is V twin oil because it has a wet clutch ???? The bearing surfaces inside a V twin are no different to any other engine, neither are the gears, and a wet clutch runs cooler, is easier to use ( no sudden grabbing ) is quieter and lasts a lot longer than dry clutch, a small downside is that a wet clutch dirties the oil quicker, making oil and filter changes more frequent - V twin oil 'marketing hyperbole alert'..........

I have used Castrol fully synth in my 2016 AL7 from almost new ( after the run in period ) and not a minutes problem with the clutch, it could be that clutch friction material in earlier SV not suitable for fully synth and V twin oil seems to be more towards mineral end of scale.

https://www.motorcyclistonline.com/m...vs-dry-clutch/

[Dave20046]

Originally Posted by SV650rules

Pretty much every bike except IIRC Ducati have a wet clutch, that is why the JASO MA oil spec was introduced, so saying it is V twin oil because it has a wet clutch ???? The bearing surfaces inside a V twin are no different to any other engine, neither are the gears, and a wet clutch runs cooler, is easier to use ( no sudden grabbing ) is quieter and lasts a lot longer than dry clutch, a small downside is that a wet clutch dirties the oil quicker, making oil and filter changes more frequent - V twin oil 'marketing hyperbole alert'..........

I have used Castrol fully synth in my 2016 AL7 from almost new ( after the run in period ) and not a minutes problem with the clutch, it could be that clutch friction material in earlier SV not suitable for fully synth and V twin oil seems to be more towards mineral end of scale.

https://www.motorcyclistonline.com/m...vs-dry-clutch/

V-Twin's tend to be torquey and don't rev as high, the interaction with the clutch is a little different from other bikes. V-twin specific oil is the same price as other oils, if I compare the 10w40 dx-4 and 10w-40 v-twin specification sheets (neither mineral) the specifications are different. So I don't believe it's marketing hype. I put PD oil in my turbo diesel (car) and I used to put gearbox oil in my motorcycle gearboxes, I don't think 'oil is simply oil' and it should guess what job or engine it's supposed to be, by the same logic why not put car oil in your bike (which I know you know because you've mentioned jaso)

Re. wet clutch, in the SV you are picking an oil that is good for the engine AND the clutch AND the gearbox, it's doing 3 different jobs. (Since you brought them up Harley Davidsons have oil for the engine and for the drive, there's probably a little more room for error there).

Anyway keen not to digress this into an oil thread as there are enough forums plagued with those - just passing on advice that's worked for me and others to a member with that very issue, but to clarify I am definitely not recommending mineral oil (and I did even say semi+ synth)

[CheGuevara]

Originally Posted by Adam Ef

Found a photo of my old SV with the Nitron reservoir on it..

So Nitron have come back and the two-part reservoir mount they offer (a generic clamp for the reservoir body, and then a presumably bike specific plate to mount to the passenger peg mounts) comes to about £100, which seems a little bit steep to me.

I think if I do decide to mount it in that position I'll just buy a length of flat bar Al and use a couple of p-clamps as suggested earlier.

[thedrewski86]

Originally Posted by CheGuevara

So Nitron have come back and the two-part reservoir mount they offer (a generic clamp for the reservoir body, and then a presumably bike specific plate to mount to the passenger peg mounts) comes to about £100, which seems a little bit steep to me.

I think if I do decide to mount it in that position I'll just buy a length of flat bar Al and use a couple of p-clamps as suggested earlier.

Che,
I did this several years ago when I upgraded the rear shock on my old cbr F2. A little aluminum bar stock and hose clamps are perfect, and a definite savings over dropping £100.

[DamoK4]

Just had a gsxr1 k5 shock fit at the garage after doing the front springs and oil last month myself. They had to cut the battery box and put a smaller same spec battery in for it to fit properly but it’s a different bike now

[Adam Ef]

Plugged a puncture with a Stop'n'Go mushroom to get me home (via a garage to top up the small amount of air I managed to get into it after half an hour with a hand pump as my CO2 inflater failed). Three inch screw buried in rear tyre riding though Gloucester. Looks like I need a new rear tyre sooner than planned. Grrrr.

[svenrico]

Originally Posted by Adam Ef

Plugged a puncture with a Stop'n'Go mushroom to get me home (via a garage to top up the small amount of air I managed to get into it after half an hour with a hand pump as my CO2 inflater failed). Three inch screw buried in rear tyre riding though Gloucester. Looks like I need a new rear tyre sooner than planned. Grrrr.

I understood a permanent repair might be possible to a tyre repaired with a temporary mushroom type plug ,according to AA man who repaired my rear tyre after removing a screw embedded in it. In my case there was also damage to the sidewall so a new tyre was required.

[Adam Ef]

I've got the kit to do that. Not sure it's worth it though when I needed a new tyre within a few months anyway. Might just get on with the change to the next set. It's not quite in the budget yet though.