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Old 18-03-06, 09:44 PM   #11
kwak zzr
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my k3 runs ok at 1000rpm i adjusted it because i want it right.
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Old 19-03-06, 12:40 AM   #12
Blue_SV650S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shop_addict
Thanks for the advice Blue.

I'll check the coolant in the morning, after I've read the manual to see where the window is

Jo
The 'window' you describe will be the expansion bottle?? we are interested in the water in the rad, not the overflow bottle … although where the fluid should have gone, won’t tell us for sure the level in the rad. What you want to do is to pop the radiator cap off. The radiator should be full to the brim (or as near as damn it), if it is not then it needs topping up with coolant. Make a not of approximately how much it takes and report back

Sitting in London traffic with a wonky rad doesn’t sound ideal. But again, one thing you need to check is if/when the fan is cutting in.
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Old 23-03-06, 07:58 PM   #13
JediGoat
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Well, I'm getting very confused about what could be wrong (that's not hard, mind), so I called Rob (mechanic) and told him what was happening.

He reckons that the fan shouldn't cut in until 104 degrees (which is what it used to do) and an engine temp in the high 90s is nothing to worry about. Funnily, the temp got to 103 on the way home tonight and the fan did come on. However, this was after it cut out 3 times on the way home last night, once this morning, and 5 five times coming home tonight

There seems to be no pattern to it - tonight it cut out 4 times when the temp was below 50, and once when it was in the nineties. Sometimes it cut out as I went to pull away (just raising the revs a touch before letting the clutch out), sometimes when I rolled off the throttle with the clutch in, and once when I didn't even touch anything! At one point when the bike was idling, there was also a noticeable knocking in the engine, which I could feel through the tank.

Added to this I was mentioning to a friend at work (who's an experienced rider) about the problems of restarting after it cuts. Sometimes when I hit the start button (often as I'm rolling scarily across a junction trying to pull away) there's nothing, almost as if there's no power from the battery. I'd also noticed that the bike sounds like it's struggling to get enough electrical power when starting up of a morning (v.dim lights and the engine turning over very slowly). I'd also noticed that my alarm had been bleeping when it shouldn't. He suggested that maybe my battery is on the way out (or has a loose connection), and that is causing the alarm warning bleeps and the restart problems.

This may be a different problem to whatever is causing the bike to cut out (that may be the idle speed, as it normally cuts when I come on or off the throttle), or it could be a short somewhere?

Anyway, as my commute now feels like a game of Russian Roulette (and seeing as I've been wiped out once on the Euston Road, and don't want that to happen again), I'm taking it to Rob in the morning for him to investigate what the problem is (although I'm not looking forward to cutting out on the A40 at 9am ). I'll let you know what he finds.

Thanks a lot for all the suggestions guys.

Jo -> fed up of being to scared to filter in case I get stuck between to lanes of fast moving traffice again!

p.s. A big thanks to whoever is was who (Steve I think) recommended Rob to me. He seems like a top bloke.
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Old 23-03-06, 08:10 PM   #14
Blue_SV650S
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Right, id suggest it could be a few things then. (in no particular order)

1: you have a coil breaking down
2: your alarm/immobiliser is causing you grief
3: the battery does sound suspect, this could be causing you problems.
4: the side stand cut-out switch is playing up
5: the ecu/cdi is playing up.
6: the ignition switch contacts are corroded
7: the earth strap ‘earthing point’ is corroded.
8: if it is injected it might be the injectors

I’d start off by fitting a new battery, if it is suspect it will only let you down in a big way soon anyway!!

Unbolt and examine the earth lead.

Eliminate the side stand switch (hardwire it).

Then you are into test/replacement of mentioned components.

If it is happening at different temperatures we will ignore the cooling system at this point.

If all else fails I’d be happy to take it out for a good spanking for you to see if that sorts it!!
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Old 23-03-06, 08:14 PM   #15
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Oh good. Not too much that could be wrong then

I'm going to print this thread out and take it with me tomorrow to give to Rob. There's so many random things going on, that he might need the info to get him started.

Ta very much
Jo -> already waving goodbye to her annual bonus
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Old 23-03-06, 09:38 PM   #16
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When I was in the Spain...my new K5 would go over 100'C in heavy traffic a lot...but would quickly go down once on the move. It was Northern Spain so not to hot. So even a box new bike with supposedly everything working will hit the 100's with no problems. Didn't have any cutting out moments.

No bike should ever cut out if its OK. Need a meddle me thinks.
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Old 23-03-06, 09:44 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Basket
When I was in the Spain...my new K5 would go over 100'C in heavy traffic a lot...but would quickly go down once on the move. It was Northern Spain so not to hot. So even a box new bike with supposedly everything working will hit the 100's with no problems. Didn't have any cutting out moments.

No bike should ever cut out if its OK. Need a meddle me thinks.
My goes down to 70s-80s when I get moving (not often in central london, mind).

I will advise Rob that meddling is required

Ta
Jo
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Old 23-03-06, 10:16 PM   #18
Blue_SV650S
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Oh please let me take it out for a good spanking!!!
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Old 23-03-06, 10:19 PM   #19
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Steady now
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Old 23-03-06, 10:23 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shop_addict
Steady now
I was talking about the bike ... but ..... ...
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