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#11 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 10
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Well I wasn't worried about this, now I am
![]() Im thinking as long as I re-check the clearances after its all back together, put the cams back on in the right position and dont refit the tensioners extended then all should be good. Can you point me to any other problems that may arise? Thanks Steve |
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#12 |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 548
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Have a good read of the manual beforehand and you'll be fine. Its just a case of marking and recording everything as it comes apart, not letting the chain go loose back down in the barrels, not dropping anything in the engine, not mixing bits up on reassembly and not overtightening bolts into soft alloy...
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#13 |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 548
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oh and if your lucky and very careful (go round them with a feeler gauge or something before lifting off) you might be able to reuse the cam cover rubber gaskets which I think are quite expensive to replace...
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#14 |
John T
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Shrewsbury, Shrops, UK
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I'm paranoid so I'd turn the engine over by hand when you're finished just to ensure there's no valve piston interference. In case of a cam timing error.
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#15 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 548
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However doing this means you have to rotate the crank with one cam set removed plus then to get back to the correct position for the first you have to rotate a long way and its easy to get confused whether youre on the firing or exhaust stroke. The crank mark lines up the same for both and I hadnt marked the chain so with no cams its very difficult to know when the electronics will produce the spark! More by luck I got it right and all was well but I lost some sleep as it wasnt my bike.... |
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#16 |
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Join Date: Dec 2016
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Thanks for all the advice, finally got round to it and all good, all clearances are pretty much in the center of spec now. Cranked by hand first, then a short burst with no plugs in, then started first time and runs fine.
I ended up taking all 4 cams out and doing the timing from scratch using the manual, so cams in correct position on front on F mark, then rotate 360 and do the rear also on F mark. Next check is at 95K! |
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#17 | |
John T
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#18 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 548
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#19 |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
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Well if anyone else is doing this job and wants to take out all 4 cams at the same time (best to enable mixing and matching of shims) I strongly recommend marking the chains at the right positions. Then from what I can see as long as the chains arent moved on their crank sprockets its the only way to be sure of correct reassembly....
The manual doesnt mention this because it talks only of doing one cylinder at a time. Last edited by glang; 19-06-24 at 07:34 AM. |
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