Breaker bar

[northwind]

Originally Posted by johnnyrod

Never, ever use a torque wrench for undoing stiff nuts unless you want to use it as a doorstop afterwards. A torque wrench is for limiting the torque applied to prevent overtightening. They do tend to be long but it's not to make it easier to pull on..

I did say that. However, if it's a reversible one- ie it can torque reverse thread bolts- as this one is- it should be able to loosen any bolt that's within its torque range without being damaged- the stresses are exactly the same.

[northwind]

Originally Posted by Tris

Just a thought but if the chain is broken, how are you going to hold the sprocket still while you attempt to undo it?

Normally I assume that you would have stopped everything going round by putting the rear brake on.

You can wrap the new (or old) chain over the sprockets to hold it...

[Balky001]

Curium, hope you had better luck than me, the brake wasn't strong enough to hold the whell from turning and I couldn't get enough leverage on the t-bar to unlock to sprocket nut, even with a bar through the wheel to stop it turning. I think someone went a bit heavy on the thread lock - unless its a reverse thread. Does anyone know if the thread is normal i.e. clockwise to tighten?

Originally Posted by Balky001

...unless its a reverse thread. Does anyone know if the thread is normal i.e. clockwise to tighten?

This is why everyone should own a Haynes Manual.

Yes it is a reverse thread.

I have just purchased a 2 foot long breaker bar from Halfords, just need to get a deep 32mm socket and I'm good to go. I'll see if i get any joy as is before wrapping the chain around and putting a piece of wood through the wheels. For some reason I'm very reluctant to put things through the wheels as it wouldn't have been designed to accept forces in that direction but we'll see.

Always found it useful to stick a block of wood or another breaker bar between the spokes of the wheel to ensure the wheel wouldn't turn.

[Sid Squid]

Originally Posted by curium

Yes it is a reverse thread.

The gearbox sprocket? No, it's the right way round, it's just wound up tight and it's threadlocked too.

Originally Posted by Sid Squid

The gearbox sprocket? No, it's the right way round, it's just wound up tight and it's threadlocked too.

I'll hold fire until I can get home and consult the Haynes but I swear it stated that it is a left handed thread and that if you over-tighten it you risk loosening something at the other end.

[Balky001]

Mine was the normal thread, I've got a GSXR but I would have thought Suzuki wouldn't swap threads around on each model. I've also got a Haynes manual and it didn't mention it but someone said it might me left handed so gave me some doubt. But I got it off, putting it in first gear helped (tip from Suzuki dealer). So all OK except I found the mecanic who did loads of upgrades but said he didn't put a 15 tooth front sprocket on actually did!!!! I knew the Power Commander & dyno couldn't have made that much difference but as speedo is taken from the front sprocket not front wheel, top still showed the same. so there we go, all that work just so I could clean the inside of the sprocket cover, you have to laugh (oh, and the sprocket markings were put facing the inside of the bike so I couldn't see them until they were off) All good experience though

OK. I was wrong

Just phoned Crescent and their mechanic said it's a conventional thread.

[Sid Squid]

Originally Posted by curium

I'll hold fire until I can get home and consult the Haynes but I swear it stated that it is a left handed thread and that if you over-tighten it you risk loosening something at the other end.

As the output shaft has nothing else threaded on to it, I'm not sure what you mean by this, the other end is plain in a bush in the case, and the pinions are splined or plain on the shaft.

The clutch nut is on the input shaft, is this what you mean?