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#11 | |
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I mean cool asin first 15 mins of running, before things "really" warm up. There is something else though that I could check that I didn't think about, the coolant temp sensor, I dont think that the dash temp and ECU measured temp are the same sensor! heh. Something else to check I guess. But if it is that then in theory it would be running rich... which could be right, I have very little engine breaking atm! Which is strange on a big twin! ![]() Cheers for the input Rai, making me think more. I got to be honest though I hope to hell that it is the damn valves, then it'll be the end of it ![]() Oh and found this, kinda supports my theory a little. Last edited by ThEGr33k; 24-02-10 at 08:22 PM. |
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#12 |
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Hi Nick.
I don't think its your valves. Tight valves cause loss of compression. If it's on the inlet side, you get a "pop" going back up the inlet trackt when the engine is trying to start or is running at tickover. on the exhaust side of things it can create backfires. But basically it casues low compression which can manifest itself as a bike that's difficult to start or lacks power. 0.002mm out is nothing to worry about unless its getting tighter. As your bike is an FI, I'd start by checking all sensors on the bike to see if they are working. Go through every connector and sensor and confirm its doing what it should be. Then I'd move in to the injectors to see if something wasn't stuck in there. After that I'd look at the electrics. A dyno run will tell you if there's something up but for the same money they could reset your FI for you at a garage. Have you added any bolt on goodies (pipes, filters etc) that could have altered the fuelling? Standard road fuelling for bikes is deliberately weakened at the lover end of the modrange for emissions testinga nd it should come as standard advise that if you buy a new FI road bike you have it reprogrammed to fuel properly instead of trying to meed emission targets. A second hand PC111 on ebay will set you back as little as 50 quid and you can install your own maps based on downloadable maps to suit any extras you may have on the bike. orf alternatively set it up for standard. C |
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#13 |
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Good morning all.
When attempting to find a poor running issue, a very old rule of thumb is to make sure everything else is in order, & that includes valve clearances. If you have already measured clearances that are under specification on the rear cylinder, you had better get them corrected, & the front cylinder checked & adjusted if necessary. Only then should you start to look elsewhere, for you could end up chasing your tail, metaphorically speaking. Because a certain type of engine will exhibit a certain characteristic, such as SV rear cylinder clearances getting tight while the fronts are ok. It's not good practise to assume that they're all going to be like it. I've serviced many SV's from new, & seen many cases where the rears were fine & the fronts needed doing at the first shim service. Cheers. Last edited by Spanner Man; 25-02-10 at 08:53 AM. |
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#14 | ||
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Its funny you should mention that popping into the airbox, I do get that, off of the rear cylinder! It happened last just after I checked the valve clearances. The rear intake clearances are tight, as you mention by 0.002mm. The exhaust, one is right on the minimim and one is 0.002mm above, so all the clearances are on or below the lower end of the scale. I have checked many things and even replaces a few (because I had the parts anyway) including the Manifold pressure sensor and TPS. Also checked intake temp which appears to be working. There arnt really any others that effect the mapping on these bikes. They are open Cct... I have a few goodies on, End cans but im running the bungs in them so they arnt flowing at their best, I also have a pipercross filter and enlarged intake boot, I was running a larger airbox as well but im not atm and tbh it dont seem to have made much odds. It has been running perfectly with all these mods before now so im fairly confident it isnt those. I do have a PC3, but there are two things. I need to know that it is simply fueling or ive wasted money if it is something else because the only way to go with this custom eprom is for a custom map... Also insurance, need to find out if they mind. ha ha Cheers for the input Berlin ![]() Quote:
![]() I have also been running some fuel cleaner (BG44K highly recommended apparently) for the last 30 miles, so if that is an issue then this stuff should sort that out... Cheers for the input, with what you said it sounds like im going about this in the right way. ![]() |
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#15 |
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Just phoned the bike shop that is sorting the Valve check and indeed they are replacing the rear intake shims as they are on the tight side. Should (provided the delivery arrives) be done soon so I can see how it is after those are put back in spec.
Fingures crossed it will be back to being brilliant ![]() |
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#16 | |
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#17 |
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![]() It is, especially if it does fix the slight stumble "thing" I been experiencing. ![]() ![]() Last edited by ThEGr33k; 11-03-10 at 01:47 PM. |
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#18 |
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Just for interest Nick who is doing the valve check for you?
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#19 |
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Independent mechanic shop (not a dealer, don't sell bikes I don't think), called RTT in Hoyland common, Barnlsey.
Why you ask? http://www.roadtrackandtrial.co.uk/Contact-Us-2-w.asp Didnt know they had a site! ha ha. Last edited by ThEGr33k; 11-03-10 at 02:14 PM. |
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