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#11 |
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The piece of 4x2 needs to be about 4-5 foot long to be useful. Looking at the bottom photo it seems the right side of the subframe has been pushed down. Lay the 4x2 along the top of the bike with one end on something solid like the cross rail under the seat and the other end sticking out over the back of the bike. Then use the G clamp to lightly clamp the 4x2 in place, in this case on the back right corner of the subframe just above where the indicator has broken off. Then gently pull the end of the 4x2 up (worth having a mate steady the bike just in case you lift it off the stand) and as you pull up the G clamp will pull up wherever you have attached it to, which is hopefully the subframe. Do it in little bits and move the clamp around so you pull the frame up evenly. The "N" shaped piece should pull back into shape as well as you lift the rail. You can obviously pull sideways and even down as well just by repositioning the clamp and timber.
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#12 |
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Thanks RH, that's very helpful. I'll give it a go.
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#13 |
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Car jack between the rear rails may be useful too.
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If an SV650 has a flat tyre in the forest and no-one is there to blow it up, how long will it be 'til someone posts that the reg/rec is duff and the world will end unless a CBR unit is fitted? A little bit of knowledge = a dangerous thing. "a deathless anthem of nuclear-strength romantic angst" |
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#14 | |
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#15 |
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Ah so many G-clamps to choose from. Will the cheapo £4 one hold out for a job like this you reckon? http://www.mitchellfox.co.uk/toolsun...lamps_139.html
Also, as daft as this sounds, 4x2 refers to timber, right? Any specific type that is recommended. Will the wood not just break? I have a barbell from my weights. ![]() Could I just clamp one end to the frame and pull down on the barbell? |
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#16 |
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The wood wont break, it's tightly packed it's stronger than you think.
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#17 |
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The barbell bar will put an indent into the frame tubes due to it's small diameter, you need to use a wider piece of material to spread the load, do it gently and dont try to straighten in one, sometimes it can help to have another lever in the opposing direction to act as a steady?
JOHN |
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#18 |
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So I've just purchased my G-clamp. Does anyone know if I should go for Sawn Timber or Planed Timber (I assume planed is stronger as it's just slightly a bit more expensive?!).
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#19 |
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It doesn't matter, sawn is cheaper and plain is less likely to give you splinters.
Take your pick.
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If an SV650 has a flat tyre in the forest and no-one is there to blow it up, how long will it be 'til someone posts that the reg/rec is duff and the world will end unless a CBR unit is fitted? A little bit of knowledge = a dangerous thing. "a deathless anthem of nuclear-strength romantic angst" |
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#20 |
Noisy Git
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Yeah same wood just planed is more expensive because it costs money to do the extra surface finishing.
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