swapping injection for carbs.

Ahh, sorry pal. Nothing personnel, but I would never post money abroad!

Originally Posted by Noble Ox

Ahh, sorry pal. Nothing personnel, but I would never post money abroad!

no prob

[embee]

Might be talking blollocks, but is there a fundamental reason why you can't run the FI ignition system and simply do away with the injection side of things? Sure there'll be all sorts of fault codes thrown up, but I'm sure that wouldn't be a show stopper providing the ignition still worked. You'd need to transplant the TPS to the carbs for the ignition mapping, but there's one on the rear carb so creating some sort of adapter shouldn't be impossible if it goes the right way, or pick up off the linkage somehow (doubt the carb TPS is compatible with the FI ignition).

I have no hands-on experience of the pointy stuff so there may well be something fundamental which prevents it.

[yorkie_chris]

When the FI light is on the ECU completely screws the fuelling, I think it may well completely screw the ignition mapping too.
Plus the EFI wiring is ridiculously complex and heavy. ECU is bigger, etc etc

I say use curvy electrics.

Originally Posted by TSM

what are the problems you are having that mean you want to move from FI to carbed?
im sure there is a work around

getting constant flow off fuel to the pump

a KR1 tank is almost flat at the bottom over a large area (well, not flat but a very light V-shape). Can't put a fuel pump in there. So now I have a first model Busa exterior fuel pump. but I don't have space to place it below the tank, so atm it's under the pillion seat. But the pump doesn't bleed itself
So I putted a fuel pump from a carburatir bike in between, for when I had to go to reserve, the carb-pump would feed the fuelpump. Once it's bleeded, the fuelpump keeps on working.

That was the idea, and most off the times it works like that. But when the tank is about half empty, the problem's start (then the fuel level in the tank is about below the fuelpump). the bike starts to hesitate then (fuel swapping to one side in the tank so air is sucked into the fuelsystem ?), so putted a switch on the bike that I can start up the carb-fuel pump to feed it again and I can drive again for a while. I can't keep the carb-pump running all the time, cause it heats too much and in the end it blocks itself - those pumps ain't made to work all the time at full rate, normally the just go tick once in a while when the carb's need more fuel, now it goes tick-tick-tick-tick .... cause the fuelpump pumps the excess off fuel back to the tank).

I already had to modify the tank to give space to the airfilters , so I only have 12.5l left, but to stay out off trouble I have to tank after only 6-7 l hve been used.

The ideal solution would be to have a small second tank (about the size off a beer-can is more than enough) below the fuel-tank, from where the fuelpump (below that can) could get it's fuel, and pump the excess back into. that way, fuel from the tank could dribble into the can like it does in carb's and get rid off sucking air into the fuelsystem.
But as you look at the pictures off the building off the bike , you'll see that all usable spaced is already used. I don't have space for the can, or the fuelpump below the tank. And I still have no place for the coolant-bottle. now it just hangs on the side off the bike. My original idea was to put that under the pillion seat.

I've been searching for an answer to the problem for about a year now, but can't find one that cures it . So if I swap to carbs, I only need a small pump, get rid off the Busa-pump and will be able tot put the coolant-bottle under the pillion seat .

Originally Posted by embee

Might be talking blollocks, but is there a fundamental reason why you can't run the FI ignition system and simply do away with the injection side of things? Sure there'll be all sorts of fault codes thrown up, but I'm sure that wouldn't be a show stopper providing the ignition still worked. You'd need to transplant the TPS to the carbs for the ignition mapping, but there's one on the rear carb so creating some sort of adapter shouldn't be impossible if it goes the right way, or pick up off the linkage somehow (doubt the carb TPS is compatible with the FI ignition).

I have no hands-on experience of the pointy stuff so there may well be something fundamental which prevents it.

it won't detect the injectors and that is a too big fault, system will shut itself down

[fastdruid]

Er could you not use the curvy fuel pump?

Its a very simple (and more importantly small) vacuum operated one, like in this picture here (not my bike unfortunately).

see the brass 'T' in between the carbs here? Follow the goodridge hose away from the carbs until it enters the small aluminium box on the frame with three hoses going into it. *That* is the fuel pump, should work fine just to 'prime' and isn't going to get hot.

Here we go, here is a picture *just* of the pump:


Druid

you need a high pressure fuel pump for FI (3.5 bar I thinck it was), fuel pumps from carb-models give no pressure at all, they only give volume

[fastdruid]

Originally Posted by janbros

you need a high pressure fuel pump for FI (3.5 bar I thinck it was), fuel pumps from carb-models give no pressure at all, they only give volume

*sigh*

That was the idea, and most off the times it works like that. But when the tank is about half empty, the problem's start (then the fuel level in the tank is about below the fuelpump). the bike starts to hesitate then (fuel swapping to one side in the tank so air is sucked into the fuelsystem ?), so putted a switch on the bike that I can start up the carb-fuel pump to feed it again and I can drive again for a while. I can't keep the carb-pump running all the time, cause it heats too much and in the end it blocks itself - those pumps ain't made to work all the time at full rate, normally the just go tick once in a while when the carb's need more fuel, now it goes tick-tick-tick-tick .... cause the fuelpump pumps the excess off fuel back to the tank).

The point I was making was could you not replace the 'carb-fuel' pump with a 'curvy' vacuum operated one that won't overheat and doesn't restrict flow.

Druid

[yorkie_chris]

Why not feed return line of your HP pump in a loop? Fuel heating effect would be minimal and your current pump would only need to top up the loop to 3psi or whatever.

maybe with bleed line back to tank from loop to allow air removal.