Is this circuit going to work?

Originally Posted by andrewsmith

matt give me about an hour i'm sure one of the mags did a how to last yr. I'll see if ive gt the mag.
Is the vapour the dash?

Awsome mate, it is the vapor dash yes. In its self it couldnt be simpler to connect up the bike as Ive bought the drz specific kit. If I asnt planing all the other work then it should take no more than an hour to set up start to finish but with my other intentions I thought it would be quite handy to customise the whole thing a little more.

Originally Posted by keith_d

Just my thoughts,
Keith.

They echo some of my own, i hadnt fully considered the ratings but I had thought that a cable capable of all 4 should be used from power to fuse.

Originally Posted by Holdup

Out of curiosity, why would you be running HID's separate from the head light wiring loom?

Not on a seperate loom as such but my trail of thought was along the lines of while Im there and already making most of the original wiring redundant then a seperate more secure power source for the HID may as well also be encorporated especially as I had 1 spare holder in the fuse box I bought

Originally Posted by tigersaw

If you are going to mount the fusebox / distribution box a distance from the battery, then the lead supplying the box should itself be fused close to the battery, with a sufficient rating.
You don't want to have an un-fused positive cable running any distance.

Good thinking, I'd not considered that - cheers

Originally Posted by Lozzo

more mildy insulting egotistical ranting.

My eye sight is 00.00, which judging by the specs in your avatar means they 5hit all over yours but thanks for your concern.
Obviously you've got your problems with HID and to an extent I can see your point of view. I too hate been dazzled by the gits in thier audis who feel it necessary to stun me into slowing until my retina have adjusted.
With the twin lights on the SV's I've never had much of a problem regarding night time riding but the drz has a single light which may as well be a tealight candle for all the use it is. It is perfectly fine in these long days but come winter with the substaintial length of unlit country road of my commute only been able to clearly see 10feet just isnt good enough. Yes large solid objects can be made out even in the darkest of these sections but its the small branches, loose material and roadkill which have me concerend, I'd much rather see and avoid these hazards than be forced into reacting.

[Bibio]

one slight observation. you might need to upgrade the Negative cable if you are running only 1 back to the battery. i would personally use different points on the frame as there is less chance of all your devices failing due to going to one point.

same goes for the positive cable to the distribution/fuse box, use a heavy gauge cable.

[andrewsmith]

Originally Posted by Owenski

Awsome mate, it is the vapor dash yes. In its self it couldnt be simpler to connect up the bike as Ive bought the drz specific kit. If I asnt planing all the other work then it should take no more than an hour to set up start to finish but with my other intentions I thought it would be quite handy to customise the whole thing a little more.

Had a look at the mag in the house and it was totally ripped off from this webpage

Matt here's the relay option

http://www.cyclenutz.com/Fuse-Block-...ion_df_49.html

[yorkie_chris]

How exactly is the HID bit going to attach to the lights? If that fuse is going to the switched side of a relay and thence to the lights then no problem. You can then power the coil of relay from the normal headlight power.

With rest of it, if it is direct from battery then you know it will be powered all time? Maybe better to run it through a relay so it only works when ignition is on?


Andrew, WTF has size of battery got to do with it. You could connect it to a truck battery the weight of a pillion or a tiny 1ah mini battery and only difference it would make is how long it takes to go flat and recharge. It is balls behind alternator and charging system that matters.

P.S in that article it uses splice and tap connectors. Don't do that. Do proper job with solder and heatshrink.

that was a good comeback matt made me chuckle.

[andrewsmith]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

Andrew, WTF has size of battery got to do with it. You could connect it to a truck battery the weight of a pillion or a tiny 1ah mini battery and only difference it would make is how long it takes to go flat and recharge. It is balls behind alternator and charging system that matters.

P.S in that article it uses splice and tap connectors. Don't do that. Do proper job with solder and heatshrink.

Chris, I purely mentioned incase Matt wasn't using a switched relay

[Luckypants]

Originally Posted by Owenski

but the drz has a single light which may as well be a tealight candle for all the use it is.

Before you go down the HID route Matt, have you tried a decent bulb in there? IIRC the standard DRZ bulb is 45W on main beam (or some equally feeble effort) but is a H4 format. Just putting in a standard 55/60 H4 makes a massive difference, but a Nightbreaker or similar high output H4 will be even better and may be all you need to do. Cheaper than HID too.

HTH

[Paul the 6th]

Ever helpful posts from lozzo as usual.

As mike said matt, try a brighter bulb first - not mega bucks and could save you a right mission. If it gives even a marginal improvement then you could always save the HID's for when autumn winter comes?

It's got a none standard H4 bulb in there at the moment, po had fitted it to run through a separate switch, sort of made the lights have 4 phases but I've ridden the very road and encountered the very same problems I'm concerned about with the current set up and wasn't too impressed with it. I'd happily have an alternate option and will consider any suggested but looking at the size of ballast yc uses in his nightbraker I prefer something which weighed less than my bike lol.

A better understanding of electrics defo seems to be the way forward first. I still don't understand relays which by the sound of it they're critical.

im certain I'll over engineer any system I put in place, this thread it just me doing the homework first so I appreciate the comments

Cheers.

[yorkie_chris]

That ballast on mine is much bigger than the modern slimline ballasts you can get.