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#11 | |
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ah, I see, degressive you mean
4cm is 1/3 of travel and this is what I've read a lot of times to be the correct sag including rider Quote:
Rider sag has to be 20mm ? With the current setup I'm not complaining about being harsh. It's just fine for normal ride as long as there is no hard braking |
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#12 |
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YC is right of course. I'd start again with the stock air gap (this is 105mm on a curvy, not sure about yours), set the emu's to their standard settings, and set the front sag to about 25-30mm with rider (ideally about 15mm without rider but this depends on your fork spring weight) As said above, progressives are a pain for this, ideally you want preload-adjuster fork tops because I find with my Progressive brand progressive springs, adding about 1.5 turns of the preload adjuster goes from feeling good solo to being good for 2-up by squashing the softer part of the spring. Backing them off by the same feels very soft. So, adjusting preload with these by only cutting the spacer tube is a bit crude as small adjustments in preload feel a lot different on the road. I think you need to get this right before you worry too mucha bout air gap and emu settings. I found that the emu's don't stiffen the front much, but they do give much better control, so don't expect it to suddenly feel different on the brakes, it won't.
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#13 |
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air gap currently is around 90mm, so this shouldn't be too far off, as 100mm is recommended for racing
I'll put the "left-overs" from the spacers in, to see if it feels better Already tried to get adjustable fork caps, haven't found some of a wrecked bike yet |
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#14 | |
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#15 |
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While you're setting up the sag, you can use pretty much anything as a spacer then just trim your tubes once. I'd go more for 25% of travel not as high as 1/3rd though, but as you've got progressive not linear springs, it'll take some persuasion to get right. You can buy the fork top adjusters from Suzuki, I don't think they're that much, but you need the disc that goes under them between the adjuster and the spacer tube. You also (might) need to cut more off the spacer tube as the caps are effectively taller. As YC says though, you're getting very soft through to very hard in only approx. 80mm of travel and that's the problem.
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#16 | |
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Currently my fork is working alright, I just want it to be more progressive at the end, to save some travel when braking hard on bumpy surfaces. The caps are around 70 Euros including the discs/washers, already checked that. Currently I'm looking for a wrecked bike offer to get a bargain ![]() |
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#17 |
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So either you need to make the progression more even across the stroke of the forks, and/or you need to start from a stiffer setting so the ramp isn't so steep. The first one is a bit more complex, the second one is probably best done by increasing preload to overcome the softer part of the fork springs. I don't think the emulators are the place to look for this though, i reckon it's the springs/air. What do you think YC?
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#18 | |
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