Drill out a knackered stainless bolt?

[maviczap]

Take the spindle out, take off the brake line from the caliper, loosen the yoke and slide the forks upward to get the caliper off the disc.

Then take the complete lower fork somewhere or do it yourself and drill the caliper bolt out from the back.

[DarrenSV650S]

Originally Posted by maviczap

Take the spindle out, take off the brake line from the caliper, loosen the yoke and slide the forks upward to get the caliper off the disc.

Then take the complete lower fork somewhere or do it yourself and drill the caliper bolt out from the back.

I think there's only like an inch of clearance between the caliper and the rim


The holes looked pretty clean when I got them back from the powdercoaters but I spose it's possible

[maviczap]

Ok, then undo both brake lines and undo the yoke bolts and slide thw whole front end down. You'll need to raise the front to get the clearance.

Well you've had enough logical replies so I don't think there's much else to advise, I have a TIG set at home so things like this I find are easily removed by welding a nut on

[maviczap]

Originally Posted by britaxcooper

Well you've had enough logical replies so I don't think there's much else to advise, I have a TIG set at home so things like this I find are easily removed by welding a nut on

Yes, but that would knacker the new powder coat on the caliper.

My suggestion was the non destructive method

Thats a common problem with hex and torx bits , its the cold weather , the snap-on man was never done replacing ours , one day he came in and told us the remedy , put the tool you are going to use in your pocket for a few mins before use an it will be fine ! , 3 winters later and no replacements required , the answer to the stuck cap screw is hammer an under size socket onto the outside of the head , the socket grips the screw and the impact of the socket being hammered onto it brakes the corrosion or lock tight on the threads making it easier to unscrew .

[SIII]

If you are going to drill stainless, do it very, very slowly, use lots of coolant, gt85 or wd40 will do and as sharp a drill bit as you can get. Once you spin up the drill bit and get it hot, stainless will work harden very quickly.

I used to work for Presto, Osborne Mushet and Hydra tools in Sheffield (when Sheffield was the cutting tool capital) and the most common mistake I saw was the thought that you had to drill hard and fast ALL the time, and then complaining when drills broke!

[DarrenSV650S]

Ok thanks for the tips guys. I'll see what the access is like with it on the bike.

Other thing that might be worth a try before drilling would be to cut a slot across the head and then try using some steel stip as a handle across it and seing it it will budge.

[DarrenSV650S]

Yeh that is worth a try. Although it is really tight.

But yeh I'll see if I can dremel a slot in it. The problem with these stainless bolts is the metal is very thin around the hex. It's an M8 allen hole and the standard bolt (which I was going to replace it with) is M6 so the metal is a lot thicker