Suspension change questions.

[MJC-DEV]

Or just ride the GSXR in the first place and lose the SV if you're making that much change?

Originally Posted by MJC-DEV

Or just ride the GSXR in the first place and lose the SV if you're making that much change?

There is always one

I know there was a group buy last year for these Debrix valves - I wonder if anyone who missed out last year would be keen on a group buy?

Going to have a go at fitting the rear shock on Saturday - weather permitting. Will the standard dog bones be ok for this? The ZX10 shock is 8mm longer than the SV

[yorkie_chris]

Should be reet.

Awesome. Thanks.
Had to Urban Dictionary that first though : http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=reet

For wont of starting a new thread... I'm sure that this has been answered many times before but I've been at this for ages now and my brain is giving up

Giving myself a crash course in suspension (getting involved in the debrix GB) and I came across this page on the racetech website (clicky) - great page. So the low speed compression damping is done by the wee hole in the emulator, and high speed compression opens the valve at the pressure determined by the adjustment knob (i.e. the preload on the emulator spring). Rebound (according to the diagram below) is controlled by the rebound holes and, because it only has to deal with the force of the spring (not the varying forces from the road) is less important to adjust (just change the oil weight instead) so the standard hole is used for rebound damping.

I've read that you've got to bore out the bottom compression damping holes (makes sense) and close up the rebound hole(s) in the top of the damping rod before installing the emulators... so how does the oil get from the "central bit" (B) to the bottom of the fork (A) on the rebound stroke with no rebound holes? Clearly I've missed something because to me the only way out is past the (closed) lower check valve. Do the SV forks have a slightly different construction to what is drawn below with some other way to bleed B back to A on the rebound stroke?

Aaargh! Thanks

[mikerj]

Originally Posted by 85jas

I've read that you've got to bore out the bottom compression damping holes (makes sense) and close up the rebound hole(s) in the top of the damping rod before installing the emulators... so how does the oil get from the "central bit" (B) to the bottom of the fork (A) on the rebound stroke with no rebound holes?

Leakage through the plastic "piston ring" and the check valve at the bottom. There is very limited scope to increase rebound damping other than thicker oil oil, so even though the rebound hole in the damper rod is tiny, it's worth doing.

Aah I see... I guess I wrongly assumed that leakage would be negligible! Thanks for saving me brain