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#11 |
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Inside face of the lock stops on the naked is machined(cast, I suppose) to thinner....this gives the naked a smaller turning circle.
There are also differences in the stem with some years...between the earlier years(might be faired and naked)...which means there are actually two different versions of the adjuster nut. Using the wrong adjuster nut on an incorrect stem means the bearing would actually be 'floating' .... It's been a while now, so can't be more specific but the above is correct. Easy enough to take just compare both stems to make sure. One reason(from memory) why a faired top yoke needs is also due to the height of the section the stem goes through. The part naked on the naked top yoke is thicker. |
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#12 |
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The top nut wouldn't tighten as it "bottomed" out so I put a spacer under the yoke. The spacer is only about 3mm thick so it does lift the yoke higher but hardly enough to notice.
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#13 |
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Fair enough, cheers. Got the shock sorted BTW
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#14 |
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I've swapped them, more than once - they're the same. Unless I fitted it wrong, but it's still being ridden now.
So I don't think so.
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#15 |
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I tried it.
We had two late model curvys next to each other and swapped everything and it didn't work, the stem was sticking up too far to let the nut tighten things up. Had to swap the bottom yokes as well.
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#16 |
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I got my (uncalibrated and all a bit approximate) measuring stick out earlier and measured the stem lengths on the two curvy bottom yokes I have:
Yoke taken from my minitwin that started life as an early naked bike (but I don't know if it was all original by the time I got it) = 273mm Yoke fitted to my standard W reg curvy S = 264mm Hope this helps. @andrewsmith - glad to hear you got the shock all sorted, enjoy ![]() |
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