Which cutting fluid? - Page 2 - SV650.org

12-01-13, 01:52 PM

cool cheers

Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191

embee · 12-01-13, 02:49 PM

Unless you're doing serious machining you can "get away with" using fluids other than specific drilling/cutting/tapping oils. Yes they are intended for the job, but not absolutely essential. I have some CT90 which works fine on most general purpose stuff I do, like this except it's a bottle not aerosol.

For mild steels you can use a thin mineral oil, like 3-in-1 or similar, aluminium likes paraffin or one of the few good uses of WD40, brass and cast iron you usually do dry. It's used to stop the tool overheating and prevent welding/pick-up on the cutting edge (I remember drilling a block of lead once without oil, ended up with a large lump welded on the end of the drill bit).

If a drill isn't cutting well it's because it is blunt, as the others say. It's worth digging out a table of cutting speeds for different materials/diameters/drill bit spec, something like here just as an example, plenty of others available if you search. Gives an idea of what sort of speeds are suitable.

phi-dan · 12-01-13, 02:58 PM

You could try Macsalvor's in Pool, if you still need the proper stuff. They tend to have most things you never thought you'd need but just have to buy!

12-01-13, 03:05 PM

i never even thought of going there at all.

Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191

12-01-13, 02:49 PM	#12
embee Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 2,804	Re: Cutting fluid Unless you're doing serious machining you can "get away with" using fluids other than specific drilling/cutting/tapping oils. Yes they are intended for the job, but not absolutely essential. I have some CT90 which works fine on most general purpose stuff I do, like this except it's a bottle not aerosol. For mild steels you can use a thin mineral oil, like 3-in-1 or similar, aluminium likes paraffin or one of the few good uses of WD40, brass and cast iron you usually do dry. It's used to stop the tool overheating and prevent welding/pick-up on the cutting edge (I remember drilling a block of lead once without oil, ended up with a large lump welded on the end of the drill bit). If a drill isn't cutting well it's because it is blunt, as the others say. It's worth digging out a table of cutting speeds for different materials/diameters/drill bit spec, something like here just as an example, plenty of others available if you search. Gives an idea of what sort of speeds are suitable. __________________ "Artificial Intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"

12-01-13, 02:58 PM	#13
phi-dan Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: going up Camborne hill coming down Posts: 251	You could try Macsalvor's in Pool, if you still need the proper stuff. They tend to have most things you never thought you'd need but just have to buy! __________________ Was: Red curvy S: crash bungs, double bubble screen, fenda extenda, HEL front lines, OEM belly pan Now: Blue FZ6 Fazer

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12-01-13, 01:52 PM	#11
SVJC Guest Posts: n/a	cool cheers Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191

12-01-13, 03:05 PM	#14
SVJC Guest Posts: n/a	i never even thought of going there at all. Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191