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#11 |
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I'm not arguing as I don't know nearly enough about the properties of different lubes, greases etc but would the application of graphite lock lube not help replace some of the properties of any grease you remove with the contact cleaner? Not the same thing, I agree, but surely it should at least help prevent things drying out and help movement?
In terms of applying the cleaner I stick the little red tube on the can, stick it in the lock and spray to my heart's content then leave to dry. The dry lock lube has its own pointy nozzle to push into the lock. Out of interest, should I ever get round to doing the job more comprehensively, how easy is it to actually get into the workings of the switch? Is it simply a case of dropping the key/ignition housing out of the headstock and opening up the back? It always looks a bit like a unit which might not allow much access to the innards. |
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#12 |
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Ha, ignore the above post, Lance. You have already answered it!
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#13 | |
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Naked K5 - Now Red with sexy stripes!! Mods: Renthal Flat bars, 's' clutch perch, GSXR front master cylinder, CNC shorty levers, Tail Tidy, Fuel Mini S/S Slip-on, 15/47, 's' Swing-arm, Pillion seat cowl, GSXR 750 front end, CNC polished top yoke, R6 Throttle tube, GSXR rear shock |
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#14 |
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do not use graphite in the wipers. if it creates a track then your stuffed. graphite is slippy but conductive.
this is why i want an ignition to strip down as i haven't really looked. |
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#15 |
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If you remove the switch then take off the bottom cover, you will see a plastic plate with copper sections moulded into it, the wires are soldered to the copper sections. Lift the plastic plate out carefully, and you will see the end of the lock barrel is a shaped pin that turns another plastic plate, this holds sprung copper wipers with raised bumps on them that contact the copper parts of the wiring plate and connect them together when the switch is in the relevant positions.
Check for: 1. Corrosion on the various metal parts. 2. Wear on the wiper bumps. 3. The wiper springs, they can be compressed or corroded. 4. A good fit between the barrel pin and the wiper plate, if it's not then the barrel may not turn the plate far enough to reliably move the wipers into the relevant spot, hence sometimes a wiggle of the key making it all happen. You can build the hole up with Araldite and file back for a good fit if needed, or sometimes wrapping the pin with tape works well enough. 5. The soldered joints for security, if they seem mechanically good but you suspect poor contact, then buzz from the end of the relevant wire to the top surface of the plate, these can be resoldered if you're careful. 6. Carefully check the wiring plate for distortion, if there has been poor contact there can be heat caused by resistance and the copper sections can move where the plastic melts, the copper sections should be perfectly flat and flush with the surface of the plastic plate. If they're not the wipers will not contact them neatly.
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If an SV650 has a flat tyre in the forest and no-one is there to blow it up, how long will it be 'til someone posts that the reg/rec is duff and the world will end unless a CBR unit is fitted? A little bit of knowledge = a dangerous thing. "a deathless anthem of nuclear-strength romantic angst" |
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#16 |
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cheers Sid, i have stripped a few ignitions down in my life but was curious as to how the SV one was constructed and whether or not its a 'novice capable' fix or not.
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#17 |
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Sprayed wd40 down the key hole which fixed it so that I can go for a ride over the long weekend if it's nice out.
Plan to take the ignition out, check and grease during the week. Thanks all, will let you know what it's like when I take it off. |
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#18 |
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i had a quick look at the pointy ignition today and the part you need to get at its a no go unless you have access to a vice and drill as the bolts holding it together look very much like snap head security bolts.
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#19 |
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Cheers Sid for the guidance - is that for curvy or pointy though? Lance's comments would suggest that Suzuki may have helpfully made the pointy ignition a bit more impenetrable. Oh, and cheer's Lance for looking and updating - for some reason I already had it my head that the pointy ignition wasn't an entirely straightforward strip down but dunno where I got that idea.
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#20 |
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sput. i'll have a good look at my ignition during the week and report back my cunning plan.
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