99 headlights

Yep, I can confirm that, being as I live in Germany I have a continental light on mine.

swapping over the connectors isn't really goin g to have the desired effect as it is the reflector behind the bulb and the lens that produce the beam. This is why I've had to buy an extra set of headlights every time I buy a new car which is great at 250 quid a pop.

I'm surprised that this doesn't get picked up when your bike is MOT'd because your headlights are set up as you say for European roads and as such are illegal in UK.

I'd say your best bet is to look on Ebay for a UK light, there always seem to be a few of them around - thats what I'll be doing next time I am posted back to the UK.

Yup, My cloggy '00 has the euro lights - I always thought that was just how SV's were made. Damn, I think it would look much better with the UK lights and have both sides illuminated. Then again there isno MOT for bikes in Holland so maybe I can get away with it....

Stu

Here is a copy of I post I made to the old forum:

I've just completed a conversion from Euro spec (one side dip, one side main beam) headlamps to the full UK spec (both dip, both main dual filament bulbs). For those interested it wasn't too bad an exercise, but the following tips may be useful to people.

There is a small wiring harness section that goes between the loom to the handlebar switches and the loom from the battery etc. This routes power across the front of the bike between these two looms and feeds the instrument binnacle and headlamps/position light. This small harness is different for different markets, but looking at the wiring thickness on the other two looms (to the switches and battery) I would say that these are market independent. The reason I say this is because the headlamp feed wires become thinner (hence cheaper) in the small harness on the Euro bike (lower power lamps) but are thicker in the switch and battery looms to cope with powering the UK lamps.

If you want to do a proper job (unlike me) then you should buy a UK version of this small loom that can then be fitted in place of the original Euro loom (if this is available as a spare). This will have the proper connectors for the UK lamps, and the thicker wire, I expect.

To do a less proper but OK job, you'll need two of the three way connectors that fit on the back of the bulbs, or alternatively three individual spade connectors per bulb. The thing to bear in mind here is to tap into the 0V wiring as close to the battery loom as possible as this is where it becomes thicker, and tap into switched dip and main beam +12V feeds as close to the handlebar switches loom as possible. This will minimise the amount of current flowing through the thinner loom. You may also want to supplement the wire that carries the headlamp current through this loom between the battery and the switches.

If anyone wants anymore info on this conversion, mail me at jamie.fraser@talk21.com.