worrying chain questions

i might be, ill have to let you know tomorrow nite ian.

Originally Posted by bikageboy

how does a tight spot appear ? and how do i make it go away ?

clean your chain before you do any sag measurements.

tight spots appear cause the chain is wearing out, o-rings go bad etc.

the only way I know to make tight spots go away is to get a new chain

from what i understand, every chain has a tight area. its not something to worry about.

Originally Posted by Wiltshire7

from what i understand, every chain has a tight area. its not something to worry about.

dirty chains and worn out chains have tight spots, maybe not worrying about tight spots is the reason I read about "snapped" chains on this forum

The tight spots are probably caused sprocket mis alignment. In this case the chain is trying to stay straight but is being forced to run on an angle causing it to try and climb the side of the sprocket, This was the problem mine had. I turned the rear sprocket around so that the machined step is facing inwards and checked with a straight edge. Looked good and no more tight spots.

ive already checked the sprocket alignment, there is a few mm play left to right on the rear sprocket and no sign of this on the front.

Originally Posted by Wiltshire7

from what i understand, every chain has a tight area. its not something to worry about.

This is true providing it's only a very mild tight spot. If there is a real mutha of a tight spot then there's little question that the chain is knackered (checked as stated in another post by seeing if you can pull the chain away from the end of the rear sprocket). If it's at this stage, renew chain and spockets ASAP.


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When I asked a bike mechanic about my chain on my previous bike when it was in for some work he said exactly that Jonboy i.e. pull the chain off the rear sprocket, if you can pull it off quite easily, NOT right off obviously, but if it can be lifted away a few mms with ease, then it's a sure sign it is knackered. My new chain cannot be shifted at all, in fact ... with all these posts I am going to check tonight ...

My old one had tight spots and could be lifted away from the rear sprocket with ease, I kept putting off and putting off, lubing and adjusting every week (it should be able to hold an adjustment for more than a week!) then one morning I put it into first to set off and it snapped . I was lucky it didn't go when I was at high speed (though I reckon it has less chance of doing this once it is spinning freely ... though I could be wrong).

Now have new chain, sprockets and fitted a loobman. Still check tension and adjust fortnightly (only have adjusted once since fitting) and lube with PJ1 (though I know you reckon PJ1 is crud Jonboy )

Don't take chances with your chain, if in doubt get an opinion from someone who knows bikes.

My two penneth.

Tony

Originally Posted by Tony_BLY

Now have new chain, sprockets and fitted a loobman. Still check tension and adjust fortnightly (only have adjusted once since fitting) and lube with PJ1 (though I know you reckon PJ1 is crud Jonboy )

I just think that PJ1 is simply too sticky and collects dirt all too easily and uses it as a grinding paste more than other less sticky lubes.

However I'm confused as to why you're using it if you've got a Loobman?

Don't take chances with your chain, if in doubt get an opinion from someone who knows bikes.

Perfect advice. Chains are one area I no longer overlook with "oh it'll be alright", I now look after it very very carefully.


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Jonboy

However I'm confused as to why you're using it if you've got a Loobman?

Still using the remains of a full can I bought before fitting the loobman (seems to last much longer than waxes I have used). Dunno, why I still use, the guy in the bike shop that riveted my new chain reckoned you can't overloob, just seem to do it as a weekly ritual ... i.e. paddock stand, tyre pressure check, chain check, lube ...

May stop when can runs out, however, just thinking about it, when I use a canister to spray links I always ensure that each link (or as near as) gets some ... thats on the inner run and the outer run, surely loobman is more random? i.e. it drips onto whichever links are passing at the time? Therefore loobing by hand ensures more full and even application?

Cheers

Tony