Nikko gpack?

how about, open your throttle harder, change the sproket ratio, and remove the manufactures ignition retard in 2nd and 3rd

Originally Posted by adam_castell

theres four wires going to the gearbox, look on the wiring diagram and you will see one goes to the 2nd gear switch and another goes to the 3rd gear switch, disconnect these two wires, job done

This is correct in my opinion, thats all that the G-Pack does. I will admit that I have a G-Pack fitted, but before you say anything, I paid £0 for it from a breaker.

[northwind]

I did it on mine (with the wire removal) and tbh I didn't notice the slightest difference. So then, I removed the wires entirely resulting in a weight saving of at least 30 grams, which of course I also didn't notice

Originally Posted by northwind

I didn't notice the slightest difference.

You won't because the SV is only very slightly retarded, anyone says they can then it all in there head to be honest!

Here is a dyno print out, as you can see it isn't a difference you are gonna feel with your **** dyno.

Have done the freebie wire mod on mine. Connector box is located under the tank. Free the couple of wires correctly and you can always put them back.

Did it to a few other guys Sv's as well. Some felt a difference (allegedly) and some didn't.

I reckon a lot depends on how you open the throttle.

Originally Posted by Dangerous Dave

You won't because the SV is only very slightly retarded, anyone says they can then it all in there head to be honest!

Here is a dyno print out, as you can see it isn't a difference you are gonna feel with your **** dyno.

is that dyno 65.6 with out the wires done then 67.1 with the wires cut?

[northwind]

TBH that's within the margin for error, it makes more sense to look at the shape than the numbers.

Originally Posted by Dangerous Dave

You won't because the SV is only very slightly retarded, anyone says they can then it all in there head to be honest!

Here is a dyno print out, as you can see it isn't a difference you are gonna feel with your **** dyno.

The differences in those graphs are not worth paying attention to, the area where its different is effected by how fast the dyno operator opens the throttle, so if not consistant on each run there will be a difference, which is handy if you want to show someone a graph

There is not a 'restriction' in the lower gears, it done for smooth delivery, if a glitch is put in the bike will feel quicker as there is a big change in power, but in truth it'll probably make less if you can feel it (not that the TRE works at all, the only time its handy is for loosing speed restriction on other bikes)
Its like a badly jetted bike, if there's a dip in the midrange the power will climb faster than on a correctly jetted bike, so the difference is bigger making it feel quicker.

Originally Posted by Robw#70

The differences in those graphs are not worth paying attention to, the area where its different is effected by how fast the dyno operator opens the throttle

Even more evidence to show that this mod isn't really noticable!