Bar conversion with pics

[maviczap]

Once you've finished polishing it, protect it with some clear lacquer or wax.

I found out to my cost when I forgot to clean my polished forks after a winter ride.

But nice job so far

[Jayneflakes]

Originally Posted by maviczap

Once you've finished polishing it, protect it with some clear lacquer or wax.

I found out to my cost when I forgot to clean my polished forks after a winter ride.

But nice job so far

This is why I have put three layers of Lacquer on the bottom yoke. It will be hidden by the faring to a degree, but having it plastic coated will make it easier to keep clean.

I have used a plastic lacquer and the finish is like glass, you can barely see that it is there. Should something dreadful happen and it start to go funny I will probably cry though!

Here is a question I have been thinking about, can I use stainless shouldered button head bolts which to fit the disk rotors to the R1 front wheel? There six fittings and each on is M6, the thread in the fitting is only about twenty millimetres. However I am not a metallurgist and I do not know if a stainless bolt has the strength to support the force put through them of a 170 kilo bike carrying my colossal fat 'arris, braking from motorway speed because a little old lady has stepped off the pavement in front of me! With four pot Blue dot brakes, that is a lot of force. Do I need to go to the dealer and buy Yamaha original rotor bolts or are they like Suzuki and made out cheese and dreams?

[maviczap]

I did fit some stainless Pro bolt disc bolts which looked nice, but they were made of cheese, so ive gone back to OEM Suzuki bolts now, which aren't made of cheese.

I wouldn't fit button head bolts, as they're not machined with a shoulder, from memory the threaded part of the disc bolt is narrower than the shoulder, so if you use bolts with no shoulder the disc isc going to move around. There's a lot force going through those bolts, so I'd stay safe and stick with OEM.

If you're feeling flush http://www.competitionfasteners.com/...olts-893-p.asp

[maviczap]

Originally Posted by dean0n0

If you're feeling flush http://www.competitionfasteners.com/...olts-893-p.asp

Yes, but if the allen head goes in one of them they are a right pig to drill out. Stainless is bad enough.

I always use an impact driver.
If the worst happens a cobalt drill bit and plenty coolant...

[Jayneflakes]

Originally Posted by dean0n0

If you're feeling flush http://www.competitionfasteners.com/...olts-893-p.asp

Dear God no! Mr YC spent hours and hours carefully machining out seized Titanium bolts fitted by a former owner. There is no way I am going back down that path. For a start YC would probably want my head on a pike!


The wife and I have looked into Stainless and we have come up with hardened grade 8 stainless, but I am still researching what this means before I go and look stupid infront of my local bolt shop. It is looking more and more like I will have to use standard bolts. I am wondering if the ones from my SV will fit, but am not sure on their thread size or length. If only I had a lathe, because I could just knock up a load of my own (in about five thousand years because not only am I completely innumerate, I have no idea how to use a lathe! ) and have no worries about the cost of bolts.

Eek.

[Bibio]

USE OEM. the bolts are de-embrittled as far as i'm led to believe so wont snap. also as mav pointed out they are shouldered so they fit in the holes properly. while your at it get a blue loctite stick (they look like pritt sticks) and are by far the best threadloc i have ever used in my life. top tip with threadloc, using threadloc can help to stop bolts seizing up due to creating a barrier but sometimes you have to take a bit of heat to soften the threadloc and all it takes is a soldering gun on the bolt head for about 1min to do the job.

the chances of 5-6 bolts all snapping at the same time are zero so no worries there. if you think that titanium bolts seize then stainless ones are even worse when in contact with alloy.

[Jayneflakes]

I now just need to find a place that sells standard R1 disk rotor bolts, time to scour the internet and see what I can find. Fowlers are charging about £3 per bolt, which seems just a touch pricey for a shouldered M6 bolt to me, there must be others out there a bit cheaper.

I do indeed have plenty of good threadlock, having worked on this hard on the bike so far I have no desire to cut corners, so have the correct bits and bobs. My aim when I am finished is that the bike will look like it rolled out of the factory like this.

Other jobs for today are to start stripping the wheel and finish the scratch repairs to the front mudguard, being a carbon job, it is a simple matter of adding a very light coat of clear epoxy to fill the little scratch and with in seconds, it is gone. I am wondering if I can or even need to fit my fender extender, this guard does come down the back a lot further than the SV one.