running on one

[redtrummy]

Thanks RiF, Went out this morning to have a play but it was just too cold. will give it ago on a slightly warmer day!

[R1ffR4ff]

Originally Posted by redtrummy

Thanks RiF, Went out this morning to have a play but it was just too cold. will give it ago on a slightly warmer day!

Don't blame you. I hate working on me bike in the cold

[redtrummy]

Well today was nice and warm so I had a quick look. I took what I think is the vacuum pipe from the bottom of the tank. No petrol came out and the bike did start with it disconnected. That did surprise me. I did notice that the rear carb was expelling atomized petrol out of the carb mouth, and when I killed the engine, petrol dripped from the carb. I therefore perceive I have a fault with the rear carb. Is there anything else I should consider? And if not, anyone any idea what could be the likely fault?

[R1ffR4ff]

I'd check the float height in that carb and reset it if required.

I would replace the float needle valve/s as well and the base and filter that are included in these kits. A lot of the stuff in the kits won't get used,

SV650 Carb Kit eBay

[redtrummy]

Thanks again R1ff, I have removed the carbs ready to take a look. I thought it would be a sod of a job, they have never been stripped down since new but all the screws came undone A1 ok. Has anyone any info on checking the float height? I did have the manual downloaded on an earlier computer but that went kuput. I found where it said standard was 7mm but that was all. Think the obvious and likely cause is a float needle with gunge stopping it sealing. Ashamed to say the bike has still less than 9k on the clock - never really get much time to ride it but when I do I always come back brighter than when I set off (assuming its running ok)

[R1ffR4ff]

Please send for the service kit. There's no point in putting the old Float Needle Valve back in. The base-filter unit can be cleaned but they come with the kit so put the new one in. The Float Needle Valve is not the innocent little thing it looks like. The little plunger on top is part of a micro-spring loaded system with an ultra tiny spring inside it. With constant daily use they last decades but if left unused for say a couple of years the springs can become corroded and stick adding to fuel delivery problems.

As for float settings:

Using a steel ruler with a bit of masking tape wrapped at 7.5mm mark use this video but you only need to make sure
that at the furthest point from the axle the float-corner is 7.5mm +/-10% to the carb body when held close the the angle the carb will be when in-situ. Float adjustments are best done with the float off to prevent damage to the Float Needle Valve.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6y32Gw5HK4


Tip: Keep a magnet handy and stick the axle to it when stripped out



When all done and happy the icing-on-the-cake is to balance the carbs as per,

http://straticus.epizy.com/SV650CarbBalance.html

[redtrummy]

Thanks again R1ff. I watched loads of y tube last night but non as good as that. I fully intend getting a kit . The wife is due to have her knee replacement next week and the weather is supposed to be turning colder( heard that one before) so it will give me a job to do in the warmish utility room
Better than the cold garage! Cheers once again

[redtrummy]

Well I have made a start. Checked the diaphragm on the suspect card looks fine. I then tried to unscrew the float bowl and cannot shift any of the 3 screws using a JIS impact driver. If I drill the heads off am I likely to have any problems removing the threaded part, or any tips to get them undone? You never see these problems on Ytube!

[R1ffR4ff]

Originally Posted by redtrummy

Well I have made a start. Checked the diaphragm on the suspect card looks fine. I then tried to unscrew the float bowl and cannot shift any of the 3 screws using a JIS impact driver. If I drill the heads off am I likely to have any problems removing the threaded part, or any tips to get them undone? You never see these problems on Ytube!

I had to drill out a couple. I ended up using a left hand drill bit. Don't use easi-outs. I had to replace one with a small nut and bolt.

A cheap kit like this did the job fine,

Left hand drill kit eBay



Before you try this leave the carb/s soaking in some diesel fuel for a day or so and then if you can get some Mole/Vise grips on the screws see if you can turn them out.

Also I always keep one of these around for focused heat and useful for several jobs,

Butane Blow Torch eBay

[redtrummy]

Thanks Riff - I did look at Easi outs but was not convinced. I do have access to a culinary torch, the wife's! Found it great for soldering 15 mill pipes as well much better than a blow torch. I did try it on one screw but failed. The front carb (mucky one) all undid ok. A friend is bringing another impact driver I will try that, then the diesel if I still have some, then the LHB if all before fails