Curvy Stator Issues. Bike cuts out

Image isn't the same as my stator, but I mean the metal rectangular ends sitting on the green plates.

New regulator (mosfet type this time) is enroute and hopefully shall see and end to this misery

[johnnyrod]

The stator has no contacts, it's like a brushless motor. Provided the wire is coiled around it and its insulation is fine, it'll work. If your RR is a MOSFET one then it shouldn't get as hot as a "normal" one like the stock one, but the stock one will get hot as that's how it dumps the excess current that isn't going into the battery. Can you check the wiring from the RR to the battery to make sure the juice is getting through? As said above, also try disconnecting the RR and running on just the battery, it will work just fine while there is life in the battery. Once you have it running then check you get at least 75V AC from the stator (RR disconnected for this test anyway) using the three wires in pairs i.e. 1 and 2, 2 and 3, 1 and 3.

On the agenda first thing in the morning. I'll make sure my battery is charged enough. Then I'll take voltage readings from each stator wire, and then connect the regulator and take readings from the outputs of that too.

All well and good so long as the bike stays running, which it wasn't before removing the dud connector, and fitting new plugs. Will post an update tomorrow.

Many thanks for the help, really appreciate you going out of your way here.

[johnnyrod]

NP man. Think of the rule of two, how do I divide my problem? And the rule of one, change one thing at a time.

Good afternoon.

So I ran the tests mentioned above earlier on. Stator was outputting 22v at idle and 63+ at 5000rpm. Measured from the connector that plugs into the RR. So that's that ruled out.

Next I connected the RR and measured the DC output. I was only reading 2.1ish volts at all rev ranges. So the RR is definitely gone.

What I have noticed is that I'm practically running on one cylinder also (the new spark plugs are probably stopping the bike from cutting out as it was before) . Now I'm wondering if I had the misfortune of a mechanical and an electrical fault occurring simultaneously...

I plan on rejetting soon and will ensure my air fuel mix is correct, install a mosfet RR and hopefully... This will finally be over

[R1ffR4ff]

It's quite common with electrical problems that one part drags down another over time.When my R/R went it took the battery with it

I fitted a Mosfet one and chronicled it just in case

https://cx500.000webhostapp.com/Mosf...sfetUniRR.html

Check the in-line Stator Block connectors.My Curvy had two!

My front cylinder is running very weak and spluttering. Also smells of fuel.

Airbox is on.

When I bought the bike it was popping, and I swapped it out for a dual delkevic full exhaust system. Had my carbs cleaned and balanced since but haven't gone near the jets.

After inspecting the stator and surrounding areas and finding no signs of damage, I can't be sure the stone was actually inside the case or was stuck to the outside of the cover amongst dirt and grit.

[glang]

Originally Posted by ChrisF

Good afternoon.

So I ran the tests mentioned above earlier on. Stator was outputting 22v at idle and 63+ at 5000rpm. Measured from the connector that plugs into the RR. So that's that ruled out.

Next I connected the RR and measured the DC output. I was only reading 2.1ish volts at all rev ranges. So the RR is definitely gone.

To confirm the state of the R/R I would do the testing as recommended in the Suzuki manual. Youll need a multimeter which then can check that the rectifier diodes are all ok however note that even if the results are good unfortunately its still not a 100% guarantee the unit will work correctly....

[johnnyrod]

When you say the carbs were balanced, you mean after they went back on the bike? Because there's no other way to do it. Regarding jetting, it could probably do with some rejetting to match the can but stock will work just fine if a little lean, so if in doubt use that. Check EVERYTHING such as idle screw settings, needle clip settings. The downside of buying an old bike is people have had a lot of time to "improve" it. Also check for a stuck choke plunger as my front one is way worse than the back, though all this really does it richen it up a bit, it doesn't cause real running problems.

Originally Posted by johnnyrod

When you say the carbs were balanced, you mean after they went back on the bike? Because there's no other way to do it. Regarding jetting, it could probably do with some rejetting to match the can but stock will work just fine if a little lean, so if in doubt use that. Check EVERYTHING such as idle screw settings, needle clip settings. The downside of buying an old bike is people have had a lot of time to "improve" it. Also check for a stuck choke plunger as my front one is way worse than the back, though all this really does it richen it up a bit, it doesn't cause real running problems.

Carbs were balanced after they were back on of course. Didn't do them myself, but had it done at a mates garage. Choke cable was also replaced as it was duff, but I shall have a check of it again.

I'll give everything you suggest a go. I'm confident the bike will be purring after I've been through it. I'm even planning to rewire the whole thing just for good measure and a bit of practice