oxford heated grips again!

[Dave20046]

Originally Posted by ridelikeaturtle

If you connect the hotgrips to a relay-controlled distribution block, you won't have any of these problems.

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php

Wow cheers for that turtle, needed a straightforward guide like that for a while I've got a few accessories I want to wire in safely. Going to take the shopping list to a relevant outlet* asap:

• 6 or 8 Post Dual-Row Barrier Block (distribution block)
• 6 or 8 post Position Jumper Cut in half
• Red, Blue and Black 18guage Wire
• Female Ends to crimp on
• 12V 30A Automotive Relay
• In-line fuse with 20A Fuse
• Quick Connects to splice into wire
• Small Zip Ties

*However I don't really know where'd do that stuff. Would it be any old car motor factors or would I need something a little more specialist?

Originally Posted by Dave20046

*However I don't really know where'd do that stuff. Would it be any old car motor factors or would I need something a little more specialist?

You should be able to get all the wiring stuff at a motor factors, e.g. Halford's should have it all.

You can get the automotive relay at Maplin (40A works fine too).

[Bluepete]

I've just fitted a new set of hotgrips, they have the digital controller with the three rubber buttons. All fitted as per the book, direct to battery as it will cut itself out below 11.5v, so shouldn't flatten the battery.

Switched it on, fine. 30% power showing. Fine. Push the power up button, nuffin. No change in power output. Pulled it apart, put it together again, the same, 30% and no more.

Called M&P, "Oh yeah, there are lots of problems with that unit, return it and we'll replace it"

Here's hoping the next one wont be a Friday afternoon special too!

Anyone had this fault?

Pete

Well to let anyone with a problem with these know I've now wired the controller directly to the battery and although I haven't used it since, I did rev it up and it appears to work just fine, no idea why though

Seems strange to me it matters where they are wired to, I assume they get the same amount of electrikery from the ignition circuit or direct from the battery . Anyone any idea why this is? I will double check with Oxford to make sure the new contoller WILL work from the ignition and then buy them, I don't really want them direct to the battery in case I forget to turn them off!

Nick