Hello! I have a few questions regarding a special build.

Originally Posted by NcSv

Heres another quick question for you knowledgable Sv owner types, is it possible to fit the later digital clockset to the curvy wiring loom?

AFAIK Stig of the Dump mounted a pointy clock set to his curvy. Not sure everything worked... but the essentials did.

Yes, lots of different clocks have been put on to crashed/modified SVs. You may not have all the features of the pointy clocks (Temp gauge?) that the curvy doesn't have sensors for. I haven't done pointy clocks on mine, so can't shed more light than that.

[Sid Squid]

Originally Posted by NcSv

Heres another quick question for you knowledgable Sv owner types, is it possible to fit the later digital clockset to the curvy wiring loom?

Went round to see my engineer friend today, and he seems to think its a goer, won't be able to get it down to his workshop for a little while due to space issues and other projects, but has suggested that we get ourselves an ally welder and just go for it. The first thing he picked up on was the angle of the engine in the frame in the mock up but doesn't seem to think that we should be too worried about the airbox and he offered up several suggestions, his only concern was whether the Sv uses a ram air set up which could then cause a major headache.
The new ally subframes and battery box turned up this morning for the bike which was nice.

Not directly, the tacho and the temp gauge won't work properly.

[yorkie_chris]

I thought bigape managed to get his working?
Are they digitally connected with the ECU then rather than picking up off a coil?

Originally Posted by NcSv

Went round to see my engineer friend today, and he seems to think its a goer, won't be able to get it down to his workshop for a little while due to space issues and other projects, but has suggested that we get ourselves an ally welder and just go for it. The first thing he picked up on was the angle of the engine in the frame in the mock up but doesn't seem to think that we should be too worried about the airbox and he offered up several suggestions, his only concern was whether the Sv uses a ram air set up which could then cause a major headache.
The new ally subframes and battery box turned up this morning for the bike which was nice.

I'd say careful with where the front cylinder ends up compared to the front wheel.

The SV doesn't use ram air, I don't see any reason why you could not so long as the carb float bowls are pressurised by a take off or pitot tube. (Or if you are using EFI, you keep the air pressure sensor)

Can you do fibreglass? What about purchasing some cheap resin to have a pop with and see if you can squeeze the proper airbox volume out into the voids around the frame? Wouldn't need to be perfect.

The pointy clock conversion gives you all the idiot lights and speedo. The Fi warning states 'check' all the time for obvious reasons. The tacho bounces around and does not read true. I disabled that function in the end because I got bored of watching the needle bounce everywhere. The temperature gauge does not work but only because the naked did not have a temperature sensor to connect to the clock. That one, had I been bothered, could have easily been rectified.

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

Are they digitally connected with the ECU then rather than picking up off a coil?

Exactly that.

Thankyou for the replies - food for thought there. Just thinking ahead. I currently have a cbr600rr dash fitted to the nc30 and not everything quite works as it should as of yet either! The next issue I've thought of is the fact the nc30/35 doesn't use a cush drive so if this does work it'll eat chains and sprockets. The nc30/35 has a basic form of slipper clutch instead as standard. But I don't cover big mileage each year due to work commitments, teaching, and a young daughter etc so if I had to replace the C+S once a year it wouldn't be terrible I suppose. - don't get me wrong I still try and get out on the bike as often as possible, I try and ride in south wales as often as possible via Ledbury, Hereford, Ross on wye out to aber and Rhayader, etc.

As long as it's only going to eat the chain and not snap it, it shouldn't be a problem.
Just a thought (in my best numpty-style), but would the lack of cush drive / slipper clutch not put extra stress on the drive train (gear box, etc)?
There's going to be a lot of stress and torsion put on the engine internals, that would usually be taken up by the cush drive. I know that the Chain is the weakest link, but after a few chains there will still be a certain amount of stress buildup on the gearbox internals (esp output shaft and bearings?), will they fail after time?

[yorkie_chris]

It must be possible to fit a cush drive wheel.
I agree with the worries about the output shaft bearing, any driving torque causes a resultant force on the bearing. A cush drive goes some way to smooth this into a force rather than repeated hammering.

Good points well put, the earlier nc24 used a cush drive and single sided swingarm so it may be able to retro fit some earlier parts? No idea about other single sided swingarm bikes. One way or another this could be another major stumbling block. I think its better to try and think of any possible problems (and solutions before sinking alot of money into a project like this), any further feedback is gratefully received. All ideas welconmed, thanks Paul.