Central Heating

you say the pump don't come on but it must come on for it not to go off, some systems have what you call pump overrun, that when the boiler has gone off the pump still runs for about 5mins to allow the boiler to cool down to stop it overheating. when you say the pump doesn't come on do you mean the boiler fires up but the pump the pump doesn't run, this would cause the boiler to overheat cue banging and crashing noise at the boiler.

[Sid Squid]

Switches in three port valve.

[the_lone_wolf]

Originally Posted by bluefishman

you say the pump don't come on but it must come on for it not to go off, some systems have what you call pump overrun, that when the boiler has gone off the pump still runs for about 5mins to allow the boiler to cool down to stop it overheating. when you say the pump doesn't come on do you mean the boiler fires up but the pump the pump doesn't run, this would cause the boiler to overheat cue banging and crashing noise at the boiler.

Let me clarify:

The pump doesn't come on when you raise the thermostat temperature above the "click" threshold

The pump does come on if you run a hot tap for a couple of minutes, which seems very odd???

The pump also doesn't switch off when you lower the thermostat below the "click" - you have to wait ~15 minutes and it stops by itself

This is everything in the airing cupboard related to the CH system:



Can't spot anything that looks like a radiator key to bleed the system myself??


Just got your PM, will give you a call in a short while

[Sid Squid]

Originally Posted by the_lone_wolf

Stuff about his heating

Which is why I said:

Originally Posted by Sid Squid

Switches in three port valve.

The green box on the piping above the pump is the three port valve, (sometimes called a mid-position valve). The 'stats operate the valve to direct the water flow where it's required - (either through the heating coil in the cylinder and/or through the radiators), and also as the valve changes position it operates switches, these switches are the ones that turn the heating system on and off, (turn on and off the boiler/pump).

The pump and boiler are probably working just fine, but the microswitch in the valve that switches the pump/boiler on when the valve is in the heating position isn't being triggered. It probably wants the little strip of metal that clicks it bending a bit.
In these circumstances it will often work right when the manual lever is used, does it?

PS. The tee above the pump with the brass end on it is a bleed valve.

no, you need to undo the little caps on top offr the pipework, the brass cap with a pair of grips do not take it all the way off, just loosen it and see if any air comes out, tighten up if water comes out, the red cap is on what we call an auto air vent but if it is fully done up will not allow air to escape, so loosen if tight, if water comes out then tighten again.
pump goes off after 15mins that is ok that is the pump overrun feature, so your only problem now is pump not coming on straight away which as i said befor could be the motor in the, cancel fixed by telephone

[the_lone_wolf]

Sid, sorry, would have got back to you sooner but was speaking with bluefishman over the blower, you were both on the right track with the three port valve, the selection lever was a bit sticky but some frantic fingering appears to have solved the problem and we're back on track

BIG thanks to all who offered advice, beer tokens redeemable at the next AR

[maviczap]

Originally Posted by bluefishman

no, you need to undo the little caps on top offr the pipework, the brass cap with a pair of grips do not take it all the way off, just loosen it and see if any air comes out, tighten up if water comes out, the red cap is on what we call an auto air vent but if it is fully done up will not allow air to escape, so loosen if tight, if water comes out then tighten again.
pump goes off after 15mins that is ok that is the pump overrun feature, so your only problem now is pump not coming on straight away which as i said befor could be the motor in the, cancel fixed by telephone

I hope you've noted all the time on your job sheet bluefish man, its going to be a big invoice at the AR I think

yes sure did, even phoned him back at my expence, time and a half, plus costs for heating lighting bills, and other office expences etc, lol.

[dirtydog]

Originally Posted by maviczap

Sometimes a local independant guy in the yellow pages can be cheaper, but depends how good they are. Make sure they're CORGI registered

I'd rather they were Gas Safe certified as Corgi isn't what you need anymore, but if they're not doing anything with the gas any competent engineer/plumber will do.

[johnnyrod]

is 60C a bit hot for hot water? I'm looking at the knob on the tank. If you need mroe than a little cold water to make it bearable then I guess that's wasting heat?

Glad you got it fixed though!