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#21 |
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All the tarmac people do is go to the suppliers, pick it up, spread it out on your drive and roller it, not complicated.
Like anything prep is the key, Like LP said, levels are the one of the most important things, get them right it makes the laying of the blocks a doddle. Id allow 25-30 of sand personally not 50mm, get the level to about 10 mm higher than it needs to be then whack the crap out of it. I have never used the rubber mat on the whacker plate tbh, i just throw some a scattering of kiln dried sand down and never had a problem. I used to charge around £50-£70 per metre when i offered this as a service, id sub it out now though tbh. 50 blocks to a metre for standard blocks. |
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#22 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Nr Ruthin
Posts: 7,079
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Even on riven faced blocks? Even with the rubber mat I did get some damage to the block faces. |
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#23 | |
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I know they recommend 50 mm for vehicular traffic but id rather put more roadstone in tbh, that stays put once compacted. If you really have to use 50mm of sand id whack it first before final levels cos you might find it will whack down more than you'd hoped it would. |
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#24 | |
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I didnt mean by hand as in with a shovel, I was implying by hand would be with a mixer, this would be as opposed to having a ready mix delivery. +1 on the depth mix, the spec I handed to estimator yesterday was that similar to a block paved vehicular crossing to kirkless council spec, expected to withstand dustbin wagons etc - driveway traffic therefore shouldnt be a problem. Just watched a vid on the whole thing and tbh it is looking quite a lot easier than I thought. I've seen on sites many times the machines laying out the herringbone and just assumed that by hand this would be a nightmare... doesnt seem to be the case. |
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#25 | |
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75mm MOT - Wacker, 75mm MOT - Wacker, 50mm Sand - Wacker, Screed, Wacker, Screed, Wacker and Screed Lay Blocks, Spread Kiln Dried Sand, Sweep, Wacker, Sweep, Wacker Sand and Sweep (Repeat 2 weeks later). |
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#26 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Nr Ruthin
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Phil - fair play mate, you are the professional here. I was stating from my one DIY experience. Hire of the rubber mat was £2.50+VAT per day extra on top of the wacker plate, so I went with it. ![]() |
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#27 |
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Mike, I'm not slagging off the whacker matt mate, I've never used or needed one that's all, so couldn't say ya or na.
For that cheap it's probably worth it though. Last edited by Specialone; 18-05-11 at 03:28 PM. |
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#28 | ||
Ubique
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire
Posts: 643
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2 layers of type 1 GSB in 75mm increments is what I'd recommend with the geotextile on top. I used to use sharp sand to lay the paviors on but switched to stone dust as it binds together better post wacking. Just make sure you keep it dry as it turns to porridge in the rain - it'll be fine once its laid though. As regards costings, it all depends on the blocks you opt for, but I would say that if you went for something like Marshall's Driveline 50, you shouldn't be paying much more than £70 per sq m laid. The price of £5000 for 50 sq m is way OTT IMHO. I would be expecting it to sing "God Save The Queen" whenever I drove on it for that price!!!! Hope this has been of some assistance. If you need any more help / advice then drop me a pm.
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#29 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: West Mids
Posts: 854
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60 block paviours; on 50 sharp sand; on 150 type 1; on 6F/2 laid in max, 150mm well compacted layers (down to min depth of -450mm); on terram 1000. HTH Edit: Of course it's only a drive so that might be a bit OTT, but you did say the transit next door causes rutting......worse in the winter is it? Oh, and dig out the soft spots and replace with 6F/2 Last edited by MisterTommyH; 18-05-11 at 07:17 PM. |
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#30 |
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Dave preston.
He has the accent, heritage and will work for beer. Plus hes a pikey. |
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