Drill out a knackered stainless bolt?

Originally Posted by GIZZY66

Thats a common problem with hex and torx bits , its the cold weather , the snap-on man was never done replacing ours , one day he came in and told us the remedy , put the tool you are going to use in your pocket for a few mins before use an it will be fine ! , 3 winters later and no replacements required , the answer to the stuck cap screw is hammer an under size socket onto the outside of the head , the socket grips the screw and the impact of the socket being hammered onto it brakes the corrosion or lock tight on the threads making it easier to unscrew .

Good advice, an impact driver is the tool I would use.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Impact-Dri...#ht_1425wt_698

[yorkie_chris]

I would drill head off, remove caliper, then get grips on remnants of bolts...

If you take mudguard off, you can remove spindle then spin fork lower to one side to get wheel out.

thanks warmshed , sorry but i disagree with the impact driver , it requires to be struck firmly to be usefull and ive seen this causing fracture damage or issues when trying to insert the new capscrew , not gospel , just my thoughts .

[yorkie_chris]

Impact driver would not be my choice here.

[muzikill]

I had a bolt shear on the cases whilst rebuilding my engine. Cost me 20 quid to get it taken out at a garage but considered the cost of the damage my inexperience may have caused getting it out, it was worth it getting a pro to do it.

welding would be what I would do here, weld into the hole then get some mole grips on it nice and tight and hopefully it'll come out. I had some right bugger screws that I couldn't get out some calipers, completely stripped but the trusty welder did the trick.

Funny I replied to this topic earlier, My girlfriend told me last night her dad had broken a cap head holding the caliper mounting bracket to the fork leg on his CCM, granted it wasnt stainless but I did what I said in my post. TIG welded a "stalk" onto what was left and then welded a M8 bolt on and it came straight out, with no damage as the heat is so localised.

How are you getting on with the SV problem?

Originally Posted by GIZZY66

thanks warmshed , sorry but i disagree with the impact driver , it requires to be struck firmly to be usefull and ive seen this causing fracture damage or issues when trying to insert the new capscrew , not gospel , just my thoughts .

Yes on reflection I agree with you and Yorkie, you would need to support the threaded part on the leg which would be difficult in this situation, sorry didn't think it through, glad you picked it up. Dave.

Dave no slight was intended mate , just 30 years of mistakes to look back on , and hopefully 20 more years of mistakes to be made .

[DarrenSV650S]

First I dremel'd a slot in the bolt head and cut a strip of metal to fit in a normal socket but the metal just twisted in the socket when I tried to undo the bolt. So I tried the same with this weird socket. The metal strip didn't twist this time, but the bolt head just snapped.



So got the drill out and slowly drilled down through the head and in to the caliper a little. Dremel'd off the bits of the bolt head that were still attached, then got a 13mm drill bit and drilled off the head. Came off easier than I thought it would. Turns out I was wrong about the space between the caliper and the rim. There was just enough room to slide the caliper off the stud. It was a bit tight and took a lot of twisting side to side to get it off.

Only marked the inside of the caliper hole a little bit




So then I got the mole grips clamped on to the stud, braced myself against the wheel, preparing to use all my strength to loosen it, and the feckin thing was loose!

Lots of confused faces later, and remembering what maviczap had said about the powdercoating, I looked at the bottom of the caliper hole.





What's really worrying is that as far as I was concerned that bolt was torqued up to the right setting. And yet the stud was loose. Ok it might have worked a bit loose from me hanging off the breaker bar, but still pretty dodgy. I'm glad I decided to swap the bolts for standard ones now or I wouldn't have known. I'll be running a drill bit through all the caliper holes before they go back on.

Thanks for all the help guys