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17-08-04, 01:45 PM
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#21 | |
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Quote:
reason was that on the 125 when cold - if you didnt keep the revs high enough - it could cut out. |
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17-08-04, 02:07 PM
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#22 |
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If you don't plip,then keep the rev's below 5,000 for every down ward gear change.
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17-08-04, 02:13 PM
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 although it would appear that would cure my problem!! |
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17-08-04, 02:41 PM
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#24 |
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It would cure your problem and it's certainly dull.
The reason the blip takes place is to match the engine revs to that of the gearbox idler gears, it's not related to the clutch at all. It's very similiar to "double declutching" in a car except that a bike has a sequential gearbox and doesn't need neutral to be engaged, hence no need to engage and disengage the clutch twice. When the two speeds are matched then the power is transferred smoothly and evenly allowing the final drive to turn the rear wheel without a huge tug and tussle which is why it locks up if you don't do this. In fact you don't even need the clutch to blip and downchange, however you have to get it precisely right. As for being unsure whether you have enough, too liitle or too many revs, experimentation will solve this. Certainly the bike won't spit you off if you blip but can certainly do so in some situations if you don't (e.g. trying to change down from second to first at 10,000 rpm!). My advice is to go for a ride with someone who fully understands the mechanics involved and let them show you. With an inline four it's not that necessary but with a twin it's essential. . |
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17-08-04, 03:03 PM
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Re: why does my rear wheel keep locking?
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17-08-04, 03:05 PM
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Re: why does my rear wheel keep locking?
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17-08-04, 03:07 PM
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#27 |
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Maybe if you take a long ride off a short pier mate
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17-08-04, 03:10 PM
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 mabe |
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17-08-04, 03:49 PM
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17-08-04, 03:56 PM
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#30 |
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Since fitting the power commander blipping is not as essential as the rear wheel rarely locks now.
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