SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking Discussion and chat on all topics and technical stuff related to the SV650 and SV1000 Need Help: Try Searching before posting |
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#21 | ||
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#23 | |
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#24 |
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You do need to drop the lowers off - but this is as easy as undoing 6 alun (sp?) keys.
Be careful though, as on mine, to get to the front alun key (hidden under the black plastic things that seems to be there to "protect" the sides of the radiator) you need to undo some very cheap and very flimsey plastic screws - these provide no grip for a normal philips screwdriver and I ended up knackering the head so I couldn't screw one of them back in again without "creating" a new groove with the aid of a hacksaw! Believe me though, the lowers are the easy bit - getting the engine bolt undone is the bitch! BTW - not having a torque wrench, I haven't done the replacement bolt up to the exact torque setting - anyone know if this will have any detrimental effects on anything? |
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#25 | |
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#26 |
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When i ordered my SV a few months ago i ordered lowers and asked the dealer to order the correct r&g mushrooms. The bike was delivered to me and the dealer told me he did not like the way the r&g's fitted?? He made me believe that they do not fit properly. Now i am thinking he may have ordered the wrong ones! Will just order myself from r&g and try em.
The dealer did say the lowers were pushed out a bit with the r&g's fitted and did not look right and that is why he did not leave them on |
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#27 |
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Well i'm off to do this now (i spend more time working on her than i do riding her
![]() Anyone remember off the top of their heads what the engine bolts should be torqued to? 55nm? |
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#28 |
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55Nm is what my Haynes Manual says!
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#29 |
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Off to halfrauds to get a new socket, my 17mm just tried to strip the nut.. can't be having that
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#30 | |
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![]() i agree though, 40 is a lot TRICK |
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