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Old 22-08-05, 03:14 PM   #21
jon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WelshWop
Quote:
Originally Posted by jon
Great timing, mine turned up this morning. Did you have to drop the lowers off? I can imagine this being the biggest pain in the a*se?
Nope. No need to remove the lowers.
Im curious on how to get to the bottom engine bolt without moving the lowers..
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Old 22-08-05, 03:22 PM   #22
WelshWop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon
Quote:
Originally Posted by WelshWop
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Originally Posted by jon
Great timing, mine turned up this morning. Did you have to drop the lowers off? I can imagine this being the biggest pain in the a*se?
Nope. No need to remove the lowers.
Im curious on how to get to the bottom engine bolt without moving the lowers..
TBH i cant remember. My memory isnt the best, but im sure i didnt remove the lowers.
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Old 22-08-05, 03:23 PM   #23
Scooby Drew
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Originally Posted by northwind
The new ones are specifically designed not to cause problems with the fairings. And I've never banged a knee on mine...
I found they were great on mine for putting my feet on on long trips...
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Old 22-08-05, 03:40 PM   #24
exduker
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You do need to drop the lowers off - but this is as easy as undoing 6 alun (sp?) keys.

Be careful though, as on mine, to get to the front alun key (hidden under the black plastic things that seems to be there to "protect" the sides of the radiator) you need to undo some very cheap and very flimsey plastic screws - these provide no grip for a normal philips screwdriver and I ended up knackering the head so I couldn't screw one of them back in again without "creating" a new groove with the aid of a hacksaw!

Believe me though, the lowers are the easy bit - getting the engine bolt undone is the bitch!

BTW - not having a torque wrench, I haven't done the replacement bolt up to the exact torque setting - anyone know if this will have any detrimental effects on anything?
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Old 22-08-05, 09:37 PM   #25
jenni
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Originally Posted by exduker

HOWEVER, I realised upon fitting that the bolt provided for the upper bracket attachment (not the main engine bolt) on the off-side was way too long for the hole left by the original bolt. I called R&G and they said they had a bad batch of bolts and that they would send a new one through to me asap. In the meantime, I've used the original bolt from the nearside (the 2 are of differing lengths, the nearside one being longer) which seems to work! Hope this is clear!
Thanks for this, my dealer did mine for me for free and told me that the bolt didn't fit right. he used the original one and threadlocked it. Will call R+G tommorow to get the correct size
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Old 23-08-05, 07:55 AM   #26
TC3
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When i ordered my SV a few months ago i ordered lowers and asked the dealer to order the correct r&g mushrooms. The bike was delivered to me and the dealer told me he did not like the way the r&g's fitted?? He made me believe that they do not fit properly. Now i am thinking he may have ordered the wrong ones! Will just order myself from r&g and try em.

The dealer did say the lowers were pushed out a bit with the r&g's fitted and did not look right and that is why he did not leave them on
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Old 27-08-05, 11:31 AM   #27
jon
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Well i'm off to do this now (i spend more time working on her than i do riding her )

Anyone remember off the top of their heads what the engine bolts should be torqued to? 55nm?
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Old 27-08-05, 11:39 AM   #28
cb9002
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55Nm is what my Haynes Manual says!
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Old 27-08-05, 12:07 PM   #29
jon
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Off to halfrauds to get a new socket, my 17mm just tried to strip the nut.. can't be having that
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Old 27-08-05, 02:01 PM   #30
trick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwak zzr
my dealer torqued mine for free! 40 quid is a stupid amount of money to fit those.
im pretty good friend swith huys down at crescent suzuki and as i only live round the ocrner they somtime let me borrow a couple of tools if i promise to brig them back, i always do, but i suspect if i ever forgot, the deals off!!

i agree though, 40 is a lot

TRICK
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