Advice / information on GSXR fork swap on a curvy

[Nicky S]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

Yes agreed. Revalve with new pistons IMO

Get some srad750 gear, then it's just new shims to get them lovely

YC what do you mean buy this ...

do you mean just use srad for the whole lot

[Bibio]

no as the bottom axle pinch bolt spacing is now wider on the K1 forks due to using the srad yokes.

the srad and later spindle and nut are the same pitch just different designs.

[Nicky S]

so its never going to work very well

[Bibio]

here is another idea.

if the stanchions are the same diameter and thread pitch (should be) of the srad and K1 forks then just change the knuckles out.. all your problems solved. or transplant the stanchions and gubbings from srad forks into the K1 and you have tarty gold forks with the correct bottom parts.

[Nicky S]

Originally Posted by Bibio

here is another idea.

if the stanchions are the same diameter and thread pitch (should be) of the srad and K1 forks then just change the knuckles out.. all your problems solved. or transplant the stanchions and gubbings from srad forks into the K1 and you have tarty gold forks with the correct bottom parts.

The likelihood of that all fitting is none lol

Especially as I can't really find any info on Pacific parts

But a good idea

[yorkie_chris]

Originally Posted by Bibio

here is another idea.

if the stanchions are the same diameter and thread pitch (should be) of the srad and K1 forks then just change the knuckles out.. all your problems solved. or transplant the stanchions and gubbings from srad forks into the K1 and you have tarty gold forks with the correct bottom parts.

Hmmmm not sure mate... you would be making some kayaba/showa hybrids, I'm not sure the thread pitch and we're getting into "not for newbies" territory here

[Bibio]

just sat and done some calculations.

to use gsxr1000 k1-2 forks in srad yokes with srad wheel:
gsxr1000 k1-2 forks into srad yokes = +1mm on disc centres so its a hit or miss if the discs rub on the mouths of the callipers.

callipers, you can use 1000 k1-2 and 600/750 k0-3

spindle and nut, yes it will work but you will loose 7mm on the thread for tightening so its a hit or miss if it there is enough thread.

mudguard, stretch the 1000 to fit, srad mudguard wont fit

sizes:
srad yoke centres = 214mm
K1-2 yoke centres = 207mm
increase of 7mm

srad wheel bearing outside faces = 136.5mm
k1-2 wheel bearing outside faces = 129.5mm
increase of 7mm. this cancels out the increase in the yokes.

srad centre of discs = 134mm
k1-2 centre of discs = 132mm
increase of 1mm either side

axle and nut are same on both srad and k1-2 as is the lower inside bottom fork spacing so with there being an initial increase of 7mm it stays 7mm

[yorkie_chris]

Doesn't srad have longer axle?

[Bibio]

nope same axle due to both the inside knuckle sizes being the same width apart. only difference is the srad axle has a nut on the end and the K have a hex socket. nut/spacer is exactly the same.

[yorkie_chris]

But a srad hub is +7mm as are the yokes.

Yeah the nut is the same as the offset from the outside of the knuckle to the first bearing is the same, but that would give -7mm thread engagement as the srad wheel bearing outer to outer is also 7mm larger