handlebar uprise for SV650S?

Originally Posted by Roadstergal

Do the FJ bars work on a pointy?

thats what i am asking,dunno myself.Think i will need to swap the wifes bars onto mine to see

Both have 41mm upper tubes don't they? The only issue then is if there is sufficient clearance on the triple.

Originally Posted by MattCo

Both have 41mm upper tubes don't they? The only issue then is if there is sufficient clearance on the triple.

Nahh thats not the issue, its the clearance with the fairings. I think that ,will be an issue

Originally Posted by Dave20046

remember to extend the wiring with plenty of slack

Screw off you little cheese Weasel

Update...
I have finally been in contact with 998cc.com regarding my handlebar conversion kit.
Apparently, the yoke was being anodised and the kit should be with me by the weekend.
Nearly 4 weeks, aint good enough in my book.
If im told item is in stock, then waiting nearly 4 weeks is shocking, if they said from the outset that it was out of stock and it would be 4 weeks that would have been ok.
Looking at my yoke the other day, i cannot see a reason why you could not drill and tap some risers on your existing yoke and bang some bars on.
Wish i had thought of this sooner as a mate of mine owns a engineering firm and could have got that done easily if i couldnt have done it myself.
Phil

Drilling and tapping an existing Yoke is NOT a good idea , on a side note my yoke from ABM wasn`t anodised but I think it has been treated for corrosion against the elements though .

[CheGuevara]

I drilled mine (GSXR forks/yoke granted), installed Renthal risers and used large washers and a nut underneath it. I sure wouldn't try and tap it though.

Anyhow, I can't imagine a situation where it would suddenly and catastrophically fail, where I haven't already crashed, in which case... I'm not that concerned with the bars/yoke.

And in the event of a spill you may have a bike that is unrideable due to knackered yoke , and if your insurance get a whiff of anything like that being drilled they can quite rightly point you towards the door ..... but as you say in a crash you are not that bothered . what bothers me is drilling something that wasn`t designed for that purpose , if I remember rightly the original yoke has a webbed pattern underneath to provide strength to the machined casting . Messing about with the structure could prove to be ill advised .

Originally Posted by xXBADGERXx

And in the event of a spill you may have a bike that is unrideable due to knackered yoke , and if your insurance get a whiff of anything like that being drilled they can quite rightly point you towards the door ..... but as you say in a crash you are not that bothered . what bothers me is drilling something that wasn`t designed for that purpose , if I remember rightly the original yoke has a webbed pattern underneath to provide strength to the machined casting . Messing about with the structure could prove to be ill advised .

The thickness of that yoke if you tapped it full depth would easily be strong enough.
The weakness would be the cross load on the bolts which is the same you would have on a purpose made yoke.
Just because you have an extra 5mm or so depth on the yoke, this will offer no strength to the bolts themselves.
M8 bolts on risers would be strong as anything you can buy aftermaket.
Do you think it would be in their interest to make things look at bit stronger so people dont just drill and tap their own things.
I used to work in a maintenance /engineering role for 9 years so i have experience with metals, destruction testing etc.
You would be amazed how much abuse decent grade small bolts / thin metal can take before destruction.

[CheGuevara]

Fair points, but if I crash (Haven't crashed on the street in over 20 years -knock on wood. Track is a different story) -there's half a dozen other bits that can break that would leave the bike just as unrideable unless you hapen to carry spares.

My stock upper triple (K5 S) isn't webbed, but I wouldn't drill one that was.

As for insurance - I'm sure they could point me to the door for a change in offset with the forks, or change of shocks or any other part that wasn't made for the purpose (even if declared) if they really wanted to nit-pick.

Not suggesting it's for everyone to do, but it's a fairly sturdy piece (at least the GSXR one -haven't examined the SV one that closely) - I've not heard of one failing due to this yet -even amongst stunter types who've dropped their bikes freqently. I'd be amazed if it broke in any crash that didn't destroy the rest of the front end.

I really don't believe it's as dangerous or scary a thing to do as is often suggested. I brought it up with a bike-building engineer who's a friend, and he didn't see any serious issue with doing it (although admittedly he'd probably make a new one because he has a mill and a truckload of skill -even machines his own engine cases).