Neutral with engine running

I hope so

[fastdruid]

I've found with some bikes there is a slight 'knack' to getting them into neutral, typically a touch of revs then change either as the rpms are either rising or falling.

Druid

Anyway, dead easy to do - take off the front sprocket cover (3 x 8mm bolts, need a long socket), then slack the clutch cable right off at both ends. Place a flat-headed screw driver in the slot for the worm-drive, hold it, and undo the 10mm nut (might need a bit of a tug, dont skin your knuckles!). Turn the worm drive in with the screw driver until it just touches something, then back off 1/8 of a turn. Hold it there, and tighten the 10 mm nut back up. Re-tighten the clutch cable (remember to leave a little slack for when you turn the handlebars side-to-side). Oh, get some oil on the worm drive mechanism and some on the gear selector shaft to it all runs smoothly

Until it touches something??? you can screw it in so far you cant get the nut on lol.



Heres a photo, though i have already been messing so its pretty much irrelevant really. I tried the thing at several positions

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...e/CIMG0002.jpg

I assume the aim is to screw the screw in until just before it starts turned the clutch mechanism? Anyway, i screwed it in so far that when in gear with the clutch out theres there was no drive, same issue.

http://www.dansmc.com/clutches.htm

Could try locking up the back wheel at 20mph as suggested here.

Not sure what you done ..... but IIRC loosen the cable at the lever and clutch end ..... loosen that nut on the bottom left of the photo ..... then screw the screw right in ........ then unscrew it about 1/4 a turn ......... tighten the bolt back up ......... adjust the cable again ........... bobs your uncle !!!!

Think thats right ............ Alpinestarwormdrivehero is your man !!!!

If you screw it all the way in it disappears inside and you cannot but the nut on So i assume they mean before the screw engages the clutch mechanism. Either way its not working, off with the side casing and see if any plates stick.

I don't believe (if it rides ok) ........it'll be that serious !!

I agree, im not bothered what it is really, i see it as a project.

Was never safe to be driven home as the ebayer business suggested though, the front tyre was a mess for a start, but i had travelled so far i thought 'sod it' as long as its not stolen etc.

Ok took the clutch apart now, the plates were very sticky and it maybe just a case of clutch drag. The plates are well within service limits almost new from the measurements. Ironically the springs need replacing as they are right on the service limit lol.

So a soak in nice fresh oil and a new set of springs are in order. Now on to the clutch outer and clutch inner.

I dont know how badly pitted they are because of lack of experience. I dont know if i can get away with filing or if i need a replacement, the inner thing doesn't seem that bad, the outer is worse. I have took some photos.

Left of center on the first photo shows the depth of the outer indents well.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...e/CIMG0008.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...e/CIMG0007.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...CIMG0002-1.jpg

Any advice appreciated, thanks.

[yorkie_chris]

"Until it touches something" I.E touches with no force, of course if you carry on you will disengage the clutch as if you've pulled the lever in!