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#31 |
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I loved my all black 2004 model Daytona 955i SE, one of the best real world sports bikes I ever owned or rode.
I had the suspension set up by Colin at 100% Suspension when he was attending a No-Limits trackday I'd gone to watch at. If I rememebr right it cost me 45 quid and I rode it on the road round Mallory Park area then brought it back for little tweeks. God knows what he did to it, but it went from being very harsh in every respect to being sweet handling and a great compromise between sporty and soft enough to tour on. ![]() |
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#32 |
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I have to agree with the man,it is worth getting the suspension set up for your body weight and conditions you will be riding on be it "B" or fast "A" roads. OK it might cost £40-50 but well worth the expense and amazing how much difference it can make to the feel of the bike. I did exactly the same on the ST although it doesn't have the same range of adjustment on the front but is surprising how a half turn here and there can change the handling when set up by a professional who really knows what they are doing
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#33 |
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As an afterthought, when it comes to getting new tyres I highly recommend Michelin Pilot Road2 2CTs. I'm not a slow rider and found they gave great grip in all conditions yet still managed to last 8K rear and 10K front.
I used to run mine about 3psi lower than the book says as they have quite stiff sidewalls - a tip I was given by Geoff Baines at Baines Racing, the Ducati Specialists |
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#34 |
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I think it was a PR2 I took off Baphs bike*, that thing was amazingly light but was fag-paper thin.
Baph can hustle a bit too and I think he liked them. *Of course, it could have been something else entirely.
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#35 |
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![]() ![]() That looks a lot like the carbon can on mine lozzo, is it the Triumph own sports can? Mark, Would I be right in thinking that the suspention settings you posted earlier could also be used on my Datytona? I may have a fiddle with the settings if so. |
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#36 | |
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My dad said that when I started that bike up it reminded him of Hawker Hurricanes being fired up on the airfield near his house on Malta during WW2. My dad hates bikes, but he genuinely really liked that Triumph. |
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#37 |
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Adjusters can have different ranges between bikes of same model. Fiddle with everything, if you write down your starting point you cannot do any harm (unless you fall off testing it)
First write down your original settings (manufacturers default? different? what is? why did you change them?) Then set your front and rear total sag Set the compression a bit loose and bounce the bike around, you want to adjust the rebound on both ends so the bike bounces back as fast as possible without bouncing past its equilibrium. Start with the front then do the back so both ends recoil at roughly the same rate. Then move compression back to OEM setting and go ride. Get a set route and try it, move comp about 4 clicks or 1/4 turn at a time. Write down when you change things. If you cannot get sag numbers to make sense then spring rate is wrong for you, when I had SRAD shock in curvy to get correct rider sag I had basically no bike sag and it wallowed a bit round long sweeping corners where you did not open throttle.
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#38 |
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The treaded section of the carcass is perilously thin on most tyres nowadays, but the sidewalls are generally quite stiff. Michelin are known for having particularly stiff sidewalls, hence the advice to run them 3psi lower
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#39 | ||
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#40 |
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That is such a weird design decision?
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