Why Do Suzuki Use S*%t Bolts?

Penetrating oil, decent quality tools, and take it easy. WD40 does have it's uses 'cos it comes in tiny aerosol cans with a wee tube that can get into tight spots. Brands like GT85 are better but usually come in big aerosols or hand pump spray bottles.

Originally Posted by Spanner Man

When it comes to sprays, penetrants & lubricants, (MATRON)! I have a bigger range in my workshop than any branch of Ann Summers. It's a case of horses for courses, as some do a particular job better than others.

Can you name some names please Spanner Man? You know, for the technically challenged?

Originally Posted by Spanner Man

Morning all.

There's little or no difference in the quality of the fasteners fitted to any Japanese bike, they're all average in my opinion.
If you really want to see chocolate bolts you should try showing a spanner to some of the Chinese W@NK on the market.

Cheers.

In my limited experince both honda and kwak bolts are just as bad. Particaually the ones that attach bodywork/engine covers, althoguh as spannerman says, even with a little care most will come off cleanly. If I can do it anyone can.

honda fasterners and bolts ive had no problems with, kawasaki and yam are bad but the suzuki are really shi#e.

Originally Posted by Tiger 55

Can you name some names please Spanner Man? You know, for the technically challenged?

I'll second this! All was going swimmingly on stripping my DR650 today and had followed all the steps to getting the engine out, just the mounting bolts were left. Needless to say that one is stuck absolutely fast, probably because the manual recommends using Thread Lock Super on those bolts when they are put back in.

So off I headed to Halford's, found some 3-in-1 Professional Penetrating Spray only to find out on getting home that despite looking different it's still made by WD40 if you check the small print on the back. I'm not sure the stuff is any different and I still can't get the bloody thing to budge - socket, spanner or mole grips. Is this penetrating oil any different then? And any tips for getting a thread locked bolt off?

Originally Posted by MeridiaNx

I'll second this! All was going swimmingly on stripping my DR650 today and had followed all the steps to getting the engine out, just the mounting bolts were left. Needless to say that one is stuck absolutely fast, probably because the manual recommends using Thread Lock Super on those bolts when they are put back in.

So off I headed to Halford's, found some 3-in-1 Professional Penetrating Spray only to find out on getting home that despite looking different it's still made by WD40 if you check the small print on the back. I'm not sure the stuff is any different and I still can't get the bloody thing to budge - socket, spanner or mole grips. Is this penetrating oil any different then? And any tips for getting a thread locked bolt off?

I had a tip from a mechanic of many years used to working on all sorts of sh1te. --- soak the area in penetrating oil and then using a hammer and punch(I use a concave tip punch) sharply tap around the area in question. Obviously the weight you use depends on the material but the idea is to set up a vibration so that the oil can penetrate. Be patient, let the oil work.

Use a surface gripping impact socket and, again, sharply tap the bar.

Having suggested that I can see some donut using a lump hammer on an aluminium casing - DON'T. If you haven't got a light hammer forget it.

[yorkie_chris]

If its an engine mount then it should be strong enough to take this, but use your judgement.
Put the socket on it, a 6point one if you've got it, and give it a good belt with a hammer, this will sometimes loosen the bolt enough, if not then buy an impact driver, they are very useful (converts impact of a hammer into a torque)

Hehe, I imagine if all the force I applied was transferred to the thread rather than the cheese bolt... I think it'll give way before the thread does unfortunately, can already see slight rounding off so I backed off to think of a different approach.

Have looked up impact drivers on Screwfix though - £5.50! Sounds like a bargain but anyone got any experience of whether their cheaper stuff is any good? For e.g. also want to get their £12.50!! torque wrench 28-210 Nm with adaptor and extension bar. Darn sight cheaper than the £60 from Halfords! While I'm at it, can I use my standard sockets on the end of the driver or will the force be too much and require special sockets as well?

[yorkie_chris]

Draper 3/8 driver torque wrench does down to 10Nm which will do pretty much anything that its worth using one on... expect to pay about £30 from a motor factor at a guess, mine was £25 at full discount.
Don't bother with the really cheap stuff but unless you work every day theres no point going for the top line stuff.

Impact driver might be alright, then again it may be made of turnip.

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

expect to pay about £30 from a motor factor at a guess

Forgive me for being ignorant, but what is a motor factor exactly? From what Google tells me I'm reading something along the lines of a group/alliance of independent companies? Can I purchase from them as a customer or do I have be trade?