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#41 |
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Location: Turre, Almeria
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I've used a soldering iron on heat shrink loads of times without any probs - prefer it to a heat gun. The heat gun heats anything in the direction its aimed whereas the iron heats what it touches. Just got to remember to keep moving the iron backwards and forwards along the heat shrink.
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#42 |
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In the US I think they say "souder" which is from the French, I believe. My French dictionary says it can mean either to solder or to weld, soudure is the noun for solder or the act of soldering. I guess it stems from soude (soda), probably the caustic variety used as a flux maybe?
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#43 |
fantabulas
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thanks for all the tips... that why I really like this place.
and I believe the across the pond folk call it ..."Sod her"
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#44 | |
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Back in the 80's I had to take an exam in soddering. We were given 12 bits of copper wire and had to sodder it into a cube. If the instructor could pull it apart we failed. |
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#45 | |
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Also looked at soldered joints with a microscope. I thought i was decent until then - the joints looked like a cratered map of the moon. By the end of the course the joints looked a million times better.
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"It's not the years in your life, it's the life in your years." Currently - Fighting the urge... seen a nice Triumph America Previously - Honda CB125, Honda CB400-4 & BSA B40, Moto Guzzi 850, Yamaha RD250, Suzuki GT380, Kawasaki Z1B, Kawasaki Z650, Honda VFR, Triumph Street Triple R. |
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#46 |
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PCB repair technique since the late 90s - bin it, get another.
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#47 |
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#48 |
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That's why i'm now doing something different - i became throw away technology.
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"It's not the years in your life, it's the life in your years." Currently - Fighting the urge... seen a nice Triumph America Previously - Honda CB125, Honda CB400-4 & BSA B40, Moto Guzzi 850, Yamaha RD250, Suzuki GT380, Kawasaki Z1B, Kawasaki Z650, Honda VFR, Triumph Street Triple R. |
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#49 |
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I did a similar course back in the '80s.
On subject: My preference is to fan the bare ends, mesh the two ends to be joined, twist them together and solder with an iron in the 20W range for these sorts of jobs. The solder should not have to be worked, just wet the iron, bring it to the centre of the join and feed the solder onto the work (not the iron) but not to excess - the solder should not be allowed to wick up the insulated section of wire by more than ~2-3mm and there should not be a blob hanging of the bottom of the join when done. On such a short join the iron will not need to be moved and solder will flow quickly. Extra flux is not necessary. Some fluxes are corrosive so be sure to clean flux residues from the join with alcohol, acetone or trichloroethylene (?) depending on the flux type - use whichever works. Your lady's nail polish remover can be a good substitute for acetone. The finished join should be 10-12mm long for the gauges normally used in an MC and a good join is bright and shiny. A cold join will be dull and unreliable. I don't think that I have ever cleaned a soldering iron used for general purpose work with anything more than solder and a damp sponge which should be handy while working. When at working temp wipe one side of the tip, then the other, wet the tip with solder and flick the excess. Wipe the tip regularly. Cheers Edits in italics Last edited by MattCollins; 12-12-09 at 06:27 AM. |
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#50 |
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MattCo, thanks for that
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