Hmmm, Restriction done, but did it work?

[Jayneflakes]

Have been looking at Rapid and found this.


6R8 25W ALUMINIUM CLAD RESISTOR (RC) 62-8111
£1.14

Originally Posted by Rapid Electronics

High power, aluminium clad resistors designed for applications requiring high power dissipation in a limited space. These resistors are designed for direct heatsink mounting using thermal compound to achieve maximum performance.

Do you think that this is up to the job?

[yorkie_chris]

Yeah if you can get correct resistance. you'll need 2 in parallel. Oh yeah 6R8 ... be right. Maybe you'll need to put it on some sort of heatsink. Cable tie it to rear subframe perhaps.

[Jayneflakes]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

Good to see a lass actually doing research about how to sort stuff rather than just chatting crap and taking it to garage, then usually whinging about getting ripped off LOL

Actually, I should be ashamed of myself. Half of my degree is in Physics, specifically energy studies. Mind you that was to do with Alternative fuels ( I was the only girl that was Pro Nuclear on that course at the time, which caused a few fights!).

Really do not want to take it to a garage because I want to learn how to do it myself. However, I use a place called Black Cats and the guy who runs it is ace, so a big cheer out to him.

[ophic]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

Yeah if you can get correct resistance. you'll need 2 in parallel. Oh yeah 6R8 ... be right. Maybe you'll need to put it on some sort of heatsink. Cable tie it to rear subframe perhaps.

I doubt it will need a heatsink, although it wouldn't hurt. The power rating is basically how much heat it can dissipate, without any help.

The resistance is correct if you wire it in parallel with each indicator. If you do it YC's way, which is probably neater but requires a bit more delving into wiring, you'd need either 2 in parallel or one of half the resistance. I'd do it YC's way if I had rear LED indies as well. If it's just the fronts, I'd just wire the resistors across the front indies.

Actually that's a lie - if I had LEDs all round I'd replace the flasher relay unit.

[Jayneflakes]

Right time for an update on my progress with the SV.

Things have been on hold for a little while due to Carol's Father becoming very ill and then passing away. It seemed for a while that there were things more important than motorbikes, but the balance is now back to normal with all things two wheeled back to top of the priority list in the Flakey residence.

My Ballast resistors finally came and after consultation with a vehicle electronics person of some repute, I purchased two 6R8, 50watt aluminium clad heavy duty resistors. I hope to have these wired up and working with in the next few days, but it depends on how much work I have on, not that this will matter soon, when I get made redundant.

In other news, my Bar risers also arrived last week and have sat in their padded envelopes with the top yoke. These provide three inches of lift and an inch and a half back from the top yoke. This should give me a comfortable and easy position on the bike, but with it all in polished aluminium it should look fantastic.

However, and this is a big however, there is a problem. I measured the bolt hole in the top yoke and ordered a suitable bolt size for the risers. Either I got it wrong or they sent the wrong size because the bolts are about half a mm to big to go through the hole. It is an easy fix and my mate Wayne (the nutter with the Stealth Fighter ZX10 and sorted ZX12) is going to do some milling work on the yoke for me, not just making the hole that half a millimetre bigger, but also take down the large circular riser mount on the top surface of the top yoke. This will allow the new risers to sit flush and flow into yoke nicely. He says it is a five minute job, but knowing him he will take an hour and when I get it back he will have done something extra amazing to it and then claim that it only took an extra minute of his spare time and I don't need to pay him.

[ophic]

Resistors sound spot on. Now you need to find somewhere to mount them securely, and bear in mind they do get quite warm to the touch.

Do be careful with your top yoke! It's built to be strong enough to do the job - start taking bits off and it might not be any more. And if it ever breaks, it'll be while you're hauling it around some spirited twisties.

[Jayneflakes]

Originally Posted by ophic

Resistors sound spot on. Now you need to find somewhere to mount them securely, and bear in mind they do get quite warm to the touch.

Do be careful with your top yoke! It's built to be strong enough to do the job - start taking bits off and it might not be any more. And if it ever breaks, it'll be while you're hauling it around some spirited twisties.

Absolutely, I know that I am out of my depth when it gets technical on the metals stuff. Wayne is an engineer based in Bristol who is a very good friend of the wife, if there is anything dodgy about it, he wont do it. However if it is safe to be done, he will do with such precision the rest of the bike will look tatty!

[yorkie_chris]

Top yokes are overbuilt IMO. I just drilled holes for risers on GSXR yoke, only time it ovalled the holes was when I had a little highside

[Jayneflakes]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

Top yokes are overbuilt IMO. I just drilled holes for risers on GSXR yoke, only time it ovalled the holes was when I had a little highside

Maybe they over build them because they know that nutters like us tend to attack them with drills, files and angle grinders!

[yorkie_chris]

There is no point, forks are meant to stop doors closing too quickly so all proper nutters swap them for GSXR one as soon as they get chance!


If you want to get your mate to do something useful get him to make a top yoke with riser clamps for you that do not interfere with the adjustment of proper forks! That is probably the single worst thing about having bars rather than clipons, simple preload adjustment takes 20 different moves with spanner per turn...