Alternator Removal

[squirrel_hunter]

According to the great book of lies I need to remove the alternator in order to facilitate the splitting of the crank cases. Now the first question is, do I have to?

The reason I ask is I don't have a rotor puller tool. So is there a work around for this?

The second question assumes the answer to the first is "yep, you gotta". Now I have found this thread, which gives the specifications for a removal tool (a bolt M20 x 1.5 mm pitch). And I've found them listed in a pack of 25 at Screwfix, I assume the pitch is a typo in the other thread and should read M20 x 150 mm, please correct me if I'm wrong.

But as I don't need 25 of them is there a bolt on the SV that can be used in its place or does anyone know of somewhere that will be open on a Sunday and sale these bolts separately?

[fastdruid]

Originally Posted by squirrel_hunter

The second question assumes the answer to the first is "yep, you gotta". Now I have found this thread, which gives the specifications for a removal tool (a bolt M20 x 1.5 mm pitch). And I've found them listed in a pack of 25 at Screwfix, I assume the pitch is a typo in the other thread and should read M20 x 150 mm, please correct me if I'm wrong.

Not done it myself so don't know but no it's not a typo, it's not the length (as 150mm would be) but the pitch. The pitch essentially being the distance 1 turn would screw in the bolt but is defined as the distance between two adjacent thread peaks.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw_t...mber_of_starts

Any decent fastener place should be able to get you just one, something like this http://coburnmyers.thomasnet.com/ite...-12-9?&seo=110 is what you want.

Druid

[squirrel_hunter]

Thanks for the clarification there Druid.

Thought it was wrong as all the bolts in B&Q were listing the M size followed by 150mm, 80mm, 60mm etc. Coincidently B&Q only go up to M12 bolts.

[fastdruid]

Originally Posted by squirrel_hunter

Thanks for the clarification there Druid.

Thought it was wrong as all the bolts in B&Q were listing the M size followed by 150mm, 80mm, 60mm etc. Coincidently B&Q only go up to M12 bolts.

When listed like that it assumes the 'coarse' pitch which for M20 would be 2.5 or M20-2.5, a M20-2.0 or M20-1.5 would be "fine"

See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_metric_screw_thread

Druid

[squirrel_hunter]

In the end I got one for a few quid from Wessex Fasteners after the first fasteners place I tried didn't have any.

The shop is run by a couple of old boys who were like a double act. But as soon as I asked for the bolt they replied, "Making a puller?", at last somewhere that new more than what was written in the catalogue. Just a shame they weren't open on a Sunday…

[yorkie_chris]

Heh, some of the "put in with the foundations" type old boys in engineering are a great source of info about all sorts of stuff, so long as you can nod with interest about tales of methanol burning velocettes and stuff

I had to take off the alternator to replace the starter clutch.

I ended up buying the proper bolt for the puller, but used a big adjustable spanner in place of a rotor holder. Just required a LOT of weight on there to loosen it, like 11 stone of body weight...

[yorkie_chris]

Brothers are good for something! lol

[squirrel_hunter]

Out of interest the proper Suzuki puller, is it just a bolt then?

And I completely agree about it needing a lot of weight. I was using a 32mm spanner locking against the table to stop the rotor from turning and then a 2ft breaker bar on the bolt. I then had to put my weight on the bar while making sure the spanner didn't slip and holding the rest of the engine in a sort of headlock arrangement to stop it from tipping over.

Not looking forward to tightening the thing back up.

[TSM]

just get breaker bar under load then wack it sharp and hard, the rotor will come off easier
if you have a impact drill, it will make it soooo much easier