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21-02-06, 01:01 AM | #1 |
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clutch issues on my 02
man i sure hope theres a lot more tech on this site than sporkbikes.net
ive got some issues with an 02 650 that i just recently purchased. the clutch seems to be going out. the former owner told me it would need replacing soon. the bike has 25k miles on it now. anyway the issues im having are as follows. the clutch lever is very tight, no play. the friction point doesnt start until the very end on the way out. sometimes when sitting at a stop in first the bike will pull forward even with the clutch lever pulled all the way in. you know it works great for quick upshifts and quick downshifts, but normal take offs and slow shifting really are difficult for me to do so smoothly. i work on vettes for a living so heavy repairs arent a big deal. the problem is i dont know bikes. ive got a clymer manual on the way though. so any info on what the problem might be would be great. if it is indeed the clutch just what all do i need to replace typically. obviously somehting else could possibly be trashed thats not a normal wear item. thanks everyone btw where is this site based out of? europe, us, or other? |
21-02-06, 01:54 AM | #2 |
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Hi WS6,
If you noticed, when you setup your account on the forum, there's a "location" field, not only does this help others to know where you are, but all so theirs will show this is primarily UK based (although has SVers from al over). Now to your clutch, the Curvy clutch has two adjusters, and is cable operated. First check the condition of the cable, either loob it or replace it, dependent on condition. Next remove the front sprocket cover, back of engine left-hand side (sitting on bike). You’ll see the cable enter from the top and go into a cam adjuster; this in turn pushes a rode through the engine disengaging the clutch on the other side. On the face of the adjuster you will see a screw with a nut around it, bend back the metal tab, hold the screw in place with a suitable screwdriver and undo the nut. Screw in the adjuster and the lever end (leaving about one turn out). Adjust the screw in the centre of the cam adjuster clockwise to tighten or anti clockwise to slacken off, check feel from lever, once you have the correct bite point (specified in the manual (downloadable from this site), but in reality up to you), tighten up the nut whilst holding the screw in place, fold over the metal tab and re-fit the sprocket cover. Test ride, you can now tighten the cable a fraction from the lever adjustor if needed (this will take the bit point away from the grip). Cheers Mark.
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21-02-06, 02:44 AM | #3 |
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thanks Mark,
I just flew threw the registration hoping to get the info out there to find out how good this site is for technical info. glad to see its pretty tech based. Curvy clutch, is that the type, name, or what? sorry, you'll have to bear with me on a lot of the technical terms dealing with motorcycles. please feel free to correct me so that i say things correctly or describe them better. for instance you said i can tighten the cable at the lever to have the clutch bite further away from the grip. now why didn't i think to describe the friction zone referenced to the grip. im here to learn so please teach away. my Clymers manual should have this info on the clutch adjustment in it as well ,correct, or will i need the factory service manual? I've never used a clymer manual before so I have no idea how good it is. here's hoping it was worth the $20 i paid. it will most likely have to wait til the weekend before i can get out there and pull the cover off and look at the adjustments. are there adjustment marks or is it based on feel alone and something that has to be adjusted periodically? based on what i described, do you think this is an actual clutch issue or just and adjustment issue? how long should the clutch last on a bike typically? until i bought this bike, it never dawned on me that a lot of the motorcycle clutches were wet clutches and ive been around motorcycles all my life. im just so used to automobile clutches, i never thought about it i guess. thanks |
21-02-06, 03:12 AM | #4 | |
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Quote:
the SV comes in two flavours the N (Naked sv650) or S (half faired sv650s) and two designs, original 1999-2002 (curvy/ x,y k1,k2) or 2003-present (pointy/k3,k4,k5,k6), the names come from the look of the panels and frame, originals have tubular frames and rounded fairing panels (have a look in "images" on the main page). clutches can last a varied amount of time, it depends on the rider to a great extent, so I'm unable to answer you question. however should you do the adjustment and still find an issue, then the curvys have a removeable clutch cover (on the right) which the pointys don't so it's an easy job. the front sprocket located clutch adjuster is only a screw type and doesn't have any markings, but once your there it's fairly straight forward and you shouldn't have any problem. Take alook at the main site ( hit the "Return to SV650.org main site" at the top of the page) and check out the FAQ's section that will give you a load of info. Cheers Mark.
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Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, 'Wow! What a Ride! |
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21-02-06, 10:58 AM | #5 |
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ok i understand the curvy versus pointy thing. my friend has an 03 1000.
ill be sure to check out the FAQs and the manual. thanks |
28-02-06, 02:13 AM | #6 |
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ok well i got everything adjusted this weekend. the adjustment down by the engine looked to be right on according to my clymer manual. i did tighten it up some though and brought it closer to 90* versus the 80-85* called for. i then got the lever positioned correctly. the bike drives fine. it is much easier for me to take off smoothly and i have a better friction zone.
however it still sometimes wants to pull while im stopped and the bike is in first gear. it seems to only happen when i restart the bike up after making a pit stop or something. i dont recall it really happening if im coming to a stop at a light or stop sign. it only gave me issues from a cold start one time. and like all the other times if its doing this i have a hard time shifting gears while sitting still or trying to find neutral. i have to step on the pedal really hard to get it to shift. oh and the previous owner reversed the shift pattern incase someone picks up on the fact that im trying to upshift by stepping on the lever. once im moving again i dont feel anything abnormal from the clutch or the transmission. thanks |
28-02-06, 07:32 AM | #7 |
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Check the clutch adjuser - the unit the cable attaches to under the sproket cover. Mine had lost most of the ball bearings and was not pushing the clutch release. Replaced the unit, easy to do, and now have no problems.
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28-02-06, 10:49 AM | #8 |
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hmm good point. i did adjust it but i didnt carefully inspect the bearings for any damage. nothing jumped out at me as being bad, but i wasnt looking either.
thanks |
28-02-06, 11:55 AM | #9 |
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If your clutch is ok and adjusted try checking that the oil is relatively fresh and the correct type.The clutch on my curvy is very choosey about having decent oil and the gearbox plays up if the chain is'nt lubed and adjusted.
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28-02-06, 03:53 PM | #10 |
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Hi there. My three penny worth.
Firstly if you pull off the clutch adjuster, inspect it over a magnetic dish or big tray as the little ball bearings will go everywhere. Right fiddle to re-assemble too. Secondly if the previous owner has reversed the gear shift pattern it may have been raced. Thirdly the clutch on my 2001 curvy has got over 45,000 miles on the original plates. And it has had some pretty hard use. Mostly two up. Also it does drag slightly, but it's no problem. Good luck |
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