Starting problem

Hey guys, my bike 99 curvy 14,000 miles, was working fine, but has suddenly developed a starting problem. I just got back from a 30 minute ride went to open my gate was still on the bike stalled it. When I tried to start it again clutch lever in stop button it just turned over repeatedly but wouldn't start. Pulled the choke out tried again still wouldn't start.. eventually what I did was pull clutch in, press start button and give it a bit of gas and then it started. I then gave it half an hour and tried starting it again, again it wouldn't start. Tried previous method of giving it a bit of gas and it started. This was without the choke pulled out..it then started but seemed like it was about to cut out.. So I pulled the choke out and the bike died.. my annoying neighbour then slammed her window closed so I took that as my cue to leave it for the day. What do you reckon might be wrong?

Its full of petrol.. has a good battery charge, it has a battery indicator fitted so i can see the level... around 13-14

[Craig380]

I think the first time (after stalling), you flooded it a bit, which is why it fired up eventually with choke OFF and a bit of throttle.

When you pulled the choke out after starting it the second time, it probably flooded again. The engine will still be plenty warm even 30 mins after riding.

It will probably start fine the next time because it will be starting from stone cold.

When you flood the bike, does leaving it awhile unflood it?, does the excess drain out?.. if i manage to start it again, what do you advise i do to ensure not flooding it again.. many thanks for response

[andy650]

Dont use choke when warm or hot.

If you need a touch of throttle to start it, then fine, mine doesn't.

When flooded, there's not so much fuel that it needs to drain, its simply the plugs are a little wet. It will naturally clear if engine is warm, or left for a while.

Full throttle, no choke, for a short period, is the way to clear a flooded engine.

Great thanks for the advice

[R1ffR4ff]

All Good info previous.Just to add.My 1999 has never had a problem starting but is well serviced but.....

It can take a little longer than the normal almost instant start if I use too much choke on cold.

I've found when well set-up these carb versions don't need much help from the choke and it would be easy to flood and certainly don't need any choke once run/warm.

I'm also a great advocate of using RedX Fuel treatment from time to time in my fuel.Just a couple of caps full every three or four tank fulls keeps the Carbon in the cylinders down and off the plugs and the fuel system clean.Been using it over 40 years,still works well and also stabilizes the fuel if the bike is ,"Winterized"

"Wilkos" Stores have it on special offer ATM @ £2 for 250ml near me.Buy a couple of bottles.

I've done a lot of work on Carbs over the years and prevention is better than splitting them

PS
When you get the time or make it.Take the plugs out and clean them and check and reset the gaps.They might be going out-of-spec.

I NEVER change spark Plugs @ manual recommended times.I change them when the electrodes are worn or there is damage to the porcelain or their resistance exceeds 10 K ohms(Stock resistance is 5K ohms) if they are,"R" rated resistor type plugs and I've had known firing problems.

I've had Motorcycle Spark plugs do over 25,000 miles and still good especially Iridium ones.

I regularly put fuel treatment in.. so thats covered.

I always use the choke when starting it from cold.. is that what you advise?

I haven't looked at the spark plugs since purchasing the bike 3 months ago, but i get the impression the previous owner would have maintained them.. I'm getting the bike mot'd in a week or so, so I might ask the mechanic to take a look at them.

If its turning over and the battery indicator appears to indicate the battery is at full power.. it would need a new battery would it?

[R1ffR4ff]

I use just a little choke but no more and none after the engine has run for a few mins and of course when it's winter a little more choke.

NEVER assume the PO did any real work on the bike.At the end of even the most sophisticated ignition system in the World there's an 1898 piece of technology and it needs to be gapped right,carbon free and working correctly.

Same as the Spark Plug Caps,again an often overlooked part of the system.

Yeh they've improved a few things but it's still a Spark-Plug and cap.

Also Spark Plugs can be a ,"Window" into how good an engine is running,

[andy650]

Change the plugs yourself, its a pretty easy job (lift tank, and pivot rad forward), and you will get to know your bike better.

Always change them, cheap and no point in putting old ones back, unless you know they are good.

[R1ffR4ff]

I'm not advocating anyone do as I do just that I like to test things and as my SV is only for pleasure and not commuting I can be more liberal.As I'm getting superb MPG and power I want to see how long these plugs will last.

The Plugs in my SV are,"Denso" brand which I know many Japanese Motorcycle makers fitted as stock in the 19980/1990s so they could even be originals or maybe one change.

However to preempt any roadside problems I've removed my Stock horn and bracket and moved the horn to the front left side of my Bike to allow easier access to the front plug.

I've got a brand new set of Iridium NGKs to go in but keep them under the rear seat in the Toolkit bag ready along with a square of cardboard with some double sided tape on it ready to stick to the inside of the Rad.I use this little trick to stop the plug spanner or my hand damaging the Rad fins and the Rad fins cutting hands