TPS Adjustment Step-by-Step Pictorial Guide

Thanks Bibio. I'll keep an eye on it.

Pete there's no idle screw on my bike, unlike the PDF manual.

Willf,Bibio I have a 2014 and when I adjusted the TPS I found my idle adjusted itself.

I cant remember what made it go up or down but it definitely did, I knocked the TPS too far one way and the bike conked out and wouldnt restart till I moved it the opposite way.

Im thinking of having another look myself as my idle is too low.

[sputnik]

I'm with Bibio on this one. My understanding was that the later pointies did not have adjustable idle as it is set electronically. Adjusting the TPS won't adjust the idle (like a normal idle adjustment screw does) but may have knock on effects on the idle. Poor adjustment or a failing TPS may cause the ECU to... in fact never mind typing my own ham-fisted explanation, here is something copied off google which kind of sums it up...

Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".

• High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.

• Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.

• Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted acordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.

• Engine Misfire: A fault TPS can report values outside the deined acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessing misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.

Thanks guys... Sometimes when stopped at the lights after a run it idles at 1500 rpm, which I know isn't miles away from 1300+/-100, but you notice it. I've never been under the tank, but maybe work my way towards TPS eventually

[yokohama]

I finally got around to doing this on mine today after having a good read of this thread. Massive thanks to all the contributors; all the advice in here makes it so much easier.
It only took me 45 minutes or so and a third of that was trying to find and activate the white dealer mode connector, which was hidden away very awkwardly under a strut right between the 2 seats and was a real pig to get to.
The line was moving to the top at just over 4000 rpm so I loosened the bolts and slowly tapped the sensor to bring the activation point down. I didn't have any trouble with the cheesy bolts although the bottom one was hard to get to. i put the torx bolt onto a 1/4 inch adapter and put that on the shorter length of a large allen key. It took me a few attempts as every time I re-tightened the sensor, the activation point went back up again. Finally, I used someone's tip of bringing the activation point down to idle and hoping that tightening up would set it correctly. Couldn't get it exact but compromised at 1700.
It did raise my idle to 1500 for some reason but that was easy to bring down.

Wow! What a difference. It's so much smoother, not only at the lower revs but also when accelerating through all the gears. Much less slipping the clutch at low speeds in first and second. I don't know if it's getting used to the change but that extra smoothness had the bike going beyond 30 and 40 limits almost without me noticing. Gonna have to be careful!

Originally Posted by Corny Gizmo

To everyone who has done this on a K7+: Have you had any issues of low idle when slowing down (I.E clutch in, in gear) Mine bearly ticks over at 1000 sometimes but is fine in neutral (I suspect its to do with the different map thats active when the clutch is pulled in.)

Might re-do my adjustment and see if I can get it to idle higher.

I have a 2010 model that I have bought recently and am having a problem with the bike stalling when I am changing down through the gears. If I have the clutch in too long, the revs dropand I can hear the fuel pump cut out and the bike stalls, recovery is fairly easy, either a clutch start while I'm moving, or press the starter.

I think my bike will start in neutral without the need to pull in the clutch lever. The bike has after market levers.... I will check this tomorrow.

If anyone can offer ideas, I'd love to hear them.

Cheers

I've just used the initial post, some 11 years later, on my son's 04 and it has vastly improved the snatchy throttle - still is a bit on or off, but much better. That is one of the clearest and easiest instructions I've come across, so thanks to this forum

The line on the dash didn't move below 3500 rpm !

I have a 2003 SV650s. I did this adjustment yesterday and I already I can feel a huge difference. The line was moving at 3,500 . Was able to reduce it to about 1600-1700 and the bike is noticable smoother and engine braking is less. On the other hand though, I noticed that my bike idles just slight above 1000 when i start it in the morning but after riding for a while, it idles around 1500. I've tried to adjust the idle but it prooving to be too difficult to set it at 1200-1300 so I'm just going to leave it as it is.

[ophic]

Originally Posted by panku

I have a 2003 SV650s. I did this adjustment yesterday and I already I can feel a huge difference. The line was moving at 3,500 . Was able to reduce it to about 1600-1700 and the bike is noticable smoother and engine braking is less. On the other hand though, I noticed that my bike idles just slight above 1000 when i start it in the morning but after riding for a while, it idles around 1500. I've tried to adjust the idle but it prooving to be too difficult to set it at 1200-1300 so I'm just going to leave it as it is.

My K3 does this too. As far as I have read, it's the throttle bodies being out of sync - however I haven't got round to fixing it yet so can't confirm.

For anybody that is doing this, I found that a paper clip works very well to bridge the two terminals to put the bike in dealer mode. I used a little bit of sand paper to remove the surface coating for better contact, and it worked great.

My bike also had the security torx screws on the TPS, they confused me at first (with the pole in the center). Luckily I could borrow a set from a mechanic at work.