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Old 24-05-06, 11:30 PM   #41
lajaro
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Default Pleeeese help

Sorry for my first post being a plea for help but I'm desparate. Went about making these TPS adjustments and all was going perfect until the little line next to the C is at the bottom: _ C00

Please help!

Thanks
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Old 25-05-06, 12:06 AM   #42
amarko5
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set your idle speed (on the adjuster screw left side of bike ) to 1450 RPM you do tis when the engine is warm.

at that point slacken slightly the TPS unit and rotate very very slowly (it takes a second or 2 to register) until the mark moves to the centre position (if it does not after moving 3 or 4 mm then go the other way. once set at the middle position roll the throttle very very slightly 50 to 100rpm and the line should move to the top. if it does tighen everything and bobs your uncle.
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Old 25-05-06, 12:18 AM   #43
lajaro
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Thanks. I've been playing with the idle and got it back to center, but now the bike sounds really rough and stalls out more.

Does that mean the idle is too low, or the TPS is too high?
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Old 25-05-06, 12:27 AM   #44
amarko5
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at what revs does the bar goto the top ?

and if you adjust the tickover down to say 1100 rpm at what point does the bar go low small movements as it takes time to respond ?

the idea is to have the bar pass the middle point around 1450 to 1500 rpm

going low below that and going high above it.

be warned it is very sensetive to adjust and takes a bit of fiddling to get it right.

the response time is approx 1 sec or so so be very slow opening and closing the throttle when your watching the bar

I have to go sleep now so maybe northwind can carry on the tech support
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Old 25-05-06, 01:23 AM   #45
lajaro
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Thanks, dude - your calm words and some patience and I got it back where I wanted.

It was constantly at low. Not sure what the combination of turns was, but at one point, it was centered when idling at 3500! So I lowered the idle then rotated the tps, then repeated.

I hope I haven't caused any damage (the fellow at the shop warned me about detonation).

Cheers
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Old 25-05-06, 05:39 AM   #46
xj/frosty
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Default just

a suggestion for anyone doing this mod. Pull the chesse screws out and replace em with cap screws.Much easier to loosen and tighten and if you use t handled allen keys a lot easier to access
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Old 29-05-06, 08:47 PM   #47
JeremySV650
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I did this today. It took me about 20 minutes total. I was able to get the line to go up at about 1700 rpm. It seems much better than before, at 3500. Great and easy to follow write up.
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Old 30-05-06, 01:11 AM   #48
skrewloose
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Default Re: just

Quote:
Originally Posted by xj/frosty
a suggestion for anyone doing this mod. Pull the chesse screws out and replace em with cap screws.Much easier to loosen and tighten and if you use t handled allen keys a lot easier to access
replaced with M5-.80 x 20mm allen heads from sears ... much easier to get an allen wrench in there and it's not that cheesey crap the stock ones are made out of .... think it was $ .07 per lock washer, $ .05 per washer and $ .70 per bolt
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Old 30-05-06, 09:01 AM   #49
lukemillar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukemillar
Is there a recommended setting from Suzuki for this?
I'm still wondering if anyone knows the answer to this!
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Old 02-06-06, 04:47 PM   #50
lajaro
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Everyone I've spoken to (Suzuki service) says that the lline must be in the middle at idle. (seems like they don't care about when the line goes up to the top).
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