Bike dead

OK, multimeter out? Good. From the wiring diagram, the positive feed can be tested at the following points (negative multimeter lead on the frame - stop as soon as you don't get a voltage reading):

1)Main fuse/starter relay - take the fuse out, touch the multimeter on the prongs that hold it in place. Nothing? Try the other side of the prongs.
2) Lift the tank, take off the air box. There's some loom connectors here. We're interested in the red wire (connector has 6 wires in total). Test this on the engine side, not the forks side. If you don't get anything here, go back to the main fuse box & check fuse 5 as per step 1. If fuse 5 has a voltage, but the ride wire under the airbox doesn't, suspect the harness connector (big one that connects harness 1 to harness 2).
3) Set the ignition to ON, and connect red & orange wires checking for continuity. If you have continuity here, carry on. If you don't, you'll be wanting a new ignition barrel & key. If you're still with me, plug the connector back together.
4) This new orange wire carries 12v out of your igniton, if you want to test 3 again, bridge red & orange wires with a piece of wire on the bike side (not fork side). This will power your light switch & you should be able to turn lights on. If lights work, put the ignition connector back together, then try again using the key instead of the wire. If you get nothing at all, bridge from red to brown at the same connector then try again (brown is your side lights, orange is head lights). The ignition needs to remain ON for the following checks. If you have no power from the ignition by key or by wire, fix this first.
5) Light switch (if curvy), unplug it & test connections have power.
6) Dimmer & pass switch, as per #5.

That should at least get lights running, and probably the rest of the bike too. Look out for lights coming on whilst you're testing connections but then going off again. This could indicate a bad earth somewhere on a chaffing point.

HTH

[Red ones]

SOunds good.

The bike is booked in to the garage, but they are threatening £35 ph to source the problem.
I will print out your list and work through it in the morning and hope to be able to either cure it myself, or atleast be able to say to the garage, "It needs a new key barrel"


Cheers



I guess the tests need to be done with the key in and turned to the ignition point.

[TimTucker]

I had this a few weeks ago with my SV. Turned key and ... nothing.

Checked the fuses and all was good. I called out recovery through E-bike, my insurers, for the Saturday morning. I had the tank up and was checking the loom, but all looked OK.

A few posts on here had mentioned dodgy ignition barrels, so I put the key in again and turned. Nothing, as before. I then gave it a sharp tap with the heel of my palm and -- voila! -- power.

Worth a try?

Aye, that's another fairly common one that I forgot about.

The spring in the ignition barrel can stick. Treat with WD40 liberally & leave overnight. Others in the past have used a SMALL hammer LIGHTLY to tap the key, but palm of the hand might work too.

On my checklist, 1 & 2 should show voltage regardless of the state of the ignition barrel, 3 onwards you want ignition ON.

If the garage are threatening £35/ph for that diagnostic, I'll do it for £20/ph . Problem being distance

I would say to stick it in dealer service mode, but without power that'll do frig all. This is why the service connector has more pins, so the computer can tell the spanner monkey what error code it is without power to the bike.

[Red ones]

I sv650.org!


On Thursday the bike died. I checked the battery, I checked the main fuse, I checked teh starter relay.

I tried to follow Baphs list (it is a good list - I just got bored trying to work out how to remove teh airbox - laziness, because I do have the instructions somewhere!)

I then spray loads of WD40 in teh lock, have a cup of tea, whack the key witha screwdriver - voila - it works!!



(Now to phone the garage and cancel the job on Tuesday!)




My wife thinks this is a really sad website - I think it has saved me loads of dosh over the past 7 years!!!

There ya go, another sticking spring stopping the lock mech working properly

Glad it's sorted mate

Oh yea, and if you have a small midget handy (or you don't like the skin on your knuckles), there's no need to remove the air box. But if you like your skin & have normal size hands, it's a right pain if you don't take it off.

[Spiderman]

Hey, great news its working again and a good thing to know if mine ever stops working for no obviousl reason.

[Red ones]

Originally Posted by Red ones

I sv650.org!


On Thursday the bike died. I checked the battery, I checked the main fuse, I checked teh starter relay.

I tried to follow Baphs list (it is a good list - I just got bored trying to work out how to remove teh airbox - laziness, because I do have the instructions somewhere!)

I then spray loads of WD40 in teh lock, have a cup of tea, whack the key witha screwdriver - voila - it works!!



(Now to phone the garage and cancel the job on Tuesday!)




My wife thinks this is a really sad website - I think it has saved me loads of dosh over the past 7 years!!!

I reserve the right to change my mind.

The RAC had to rescue me yesterday and the bike is booked in again! Keyswitch seems FUBAR.
The dopey garage kept arguing with me about the key. Although one guy in the garage said it was straightforward to sort, another kept insisting that it won't be because Suzuki will have to supply a new key with the right chip in it for the immobiliser. I told him that no SV is that complicated, in fact I told him several times, but I am apparently a complete idiot and no nothing about the trusty SV650. I was told by some spotty **** that it could be the factory fitted immobiliser that is faulty - I was tempted to put a bet on it not being the immobiliser.