more clutch issues - SV650.org

timwilky · 13-05-06, 06:16 AM

My 14,800 mile curvy has always had an issue of the clutch dragging, making it difficult to sometimes find nuetral. I always thought it was me until the MOT inspector commented on it the other day.

I avoid sitting at junctions holding the clutch and try to find nuetral approaching junctions whilst the bike is still moving.

The bike has an unknown history. I got it at 4500 miles shown but the vin plate was missing. (Frame number does match docs) 3 previous owners (High for such low milage), does not appear to have beed droped. no marking on lock stop, pegs, original paintwork, HPI clean etc yet there is a deep scuff on the LHS of the swinging arm as if a chain had come off. Chain set is original and the bike came with the original Z4 tyres so it all seem genuine.

I have adjusted the clutch actuator correctly. The break point is sweet whilst the bike is in motion, but when stationary it drags.

Is this a new clutch now. Or should I wait until I next service it and then whip the thing out for an inspection.

BTW oil level is correct and chain is correctly tensioned

13-05-06, 08:30 AM

As you say you have done the actuator (and presumably cable freeplay) already, sounds like you have warped clutchplates. Get in there and have the bits apart.

A simple way to test for warpage/’dishing’ is that once you have the plates (metal and friction) out, then place them against a piece of glass and try and wabble/rock them, then turn them over and try again. There should be no real visible signs of wabbling. At this point you can get your feeler gauges out and do the job properly, but if they are warped it would probably be detectable by the wabble method.

Inspect the metal plates, if they are all ‘charred’ looking this is a sign you have a problem and if they are unevenly charred, this is again a sign they are warped.

Another cause of clutch drag is wear groves in the clutch basket where the plates ‘tabs’ sit, but this is usually only found on higher mileage examples (worth a check though).

Sid Squid · 14-05-06, 07:55 PM

If the clutch drags then there's no doubt about it's ability to grip thus it's unlikely to be a 'worn out' clutch. We've been through the lifter troubles previously - search Northy's posts for his probs and the suggested fix. The plates are definately worth examining - any warping will certainly make the clutch drag, as will damage to the basket and/or centre.

13-05-06, 06:16 AM	#1
timwilky Member Mega Poster Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Not in Yorkshire. (Thank God) Posts: 4,116	more clutch issues My 14,800 mile curvy has always had an issue of the clutch dragging, making it difficult to sometimes find nuetral. I always thought it was me until the MOT inspector commented on it the other day. I avoid sitting at junctions holding the clutch and try to find nuetral approaching junctions whilst the bike is still moving. The bike has an unknown history. I got it at 4500 miles shown but the vin plate was missing. (Frame number does match docs) 3 previous owners (High for such low milage), does not appear to have beed droped. no marking on lock stop, pegs, original paintwork, HPI clean etc yet there is a deep scuff on the LHS of the swinging arm as if a chain had come off. Chain set is original and the bike came with the original Z4 tyres so it all seem genuine. I have adjusted the clutch actuator correctly. The break point is sweet whilst the bike is in motion, but when stationary it drags. Is this a new clutch now. Or should I wait until I next service it and then whip the thing out for an inspection. BTW oil level is correct and chain is correctly tensioned __________________ Not Grumpy, opinionated.

14-05-06, 07:55 PM	#3
Sid Squid No, I don't lend tools. Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Skunk Works, Nth London Posts: 8,680	If the clutch drags then there's no doubt about it's ability to grip thus it's unlikely to be a 'worn out' clutch. We've been through the lifter troubles previously - search Northy's posts for his probs and the suggested fix. The plates are definately worth examining - any warping will certainly make the clutch drag, as will damage to the basket and/or centre. __________________ If an SV650 has a flat tyre in the forest and no-one is there to blow it up, how long will it be 'til someone posts that the reg/rec is duff and the world will end unless a CBR unit is fitted? A little bit of knowledge = a dangerous thing. "a deathless anthem of nuclear-strength romantic angst"

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13-05-06, 08:30 AM	#2
Blue_SV650S Guest Posts: n/a	As you say you have done the actuator (and presumably cable freeplay) already, sounds like you have warped clutchplates. Get in there and have the bits apart. A simple way to test for warpage/’dishing’ is that once you have the plates (metal and friction) out, then place them against a piece of glass and try and wabble/rock them, then turn them over and try again. There should be no real visible signs of wabbling. At this point you can get your feeler gauges out and do the job properly, but if they are warped it would probably be detectable by the wabble method. Inspect the metal plates, if they are all ‘charred’ looking this is a sign you have a problem and if they are unevenly charred, this is again a sign they are warped. Another cause of clutch drag is wear groves in the clutch basket where the plates ‘tabs’ sit, but this is usually only found on higher mileage examples (worth a check though).