error code c-42

Originally Posted by Baph

C42 is ignition tampering IIRC. So check the ignition barrel as far as practically possible.

Also check the fuse box, I know mine can get a little damp as I have an EvoTech tail tidy fitted & water sometimes goes where it shouldn't - though usually only when I'm hosing the bike down.

it happened when dry and not washed so i dont think water would be the cause.

what am i looking for at the barrel? the bike itself turns on, it just dosent prime the injection system.

If your multimeter is small enough, carry it with you on the bike.

Next time it happens (or if it's still the same now), take the fuel fuse out & bridge the gap (temporarily) with the multimeter (current check).

The fuel fuse is the one with a red/white and a black/red wire to it.

Basically, +12v comes from the fuse box to the ignition, and this is connected to the black/red wire to go out to the fuel system, and the fuse is the easiest place to test when you're potentially in the middle of no where.

[DavieSV]

I still think you need to look at the relay next to the fuse box under your seat.

I have just taken mine out and got the same simtoms as you.

can you not try someone else's in there to see what happens

Originally Posted by DavieSV

I still think you need to look at the relay next to the fuse box under your seat.

That relay gets it's power from the fuse I said to check.

But yes, after the fuse the next point to check is that the relay isn't duff.

ok, im trying to check it, but i dont know what im doing

what do I set the multi meter too to check the current?

I did a continuity test (I think) and i got lots of numbers, which google tells me is bad? but im not sure if i even did the test right.

the fule fuse looks fine to the eye and the contacts are fine too.

ok, i think i figued the multi meter out. set it to v20 and took the reading. got nothing, screen stayed showing 0.

the continuity test shows -447

OK, you were supposed to set it to amps, rather than volts, but nevermind.

Did you take the fuse out, and put the multimeter to the metallic fuse contacts (effectively replacing the fuse with your multimeter)?

If you did, and you read 0v, then no power is getting to the fuse, let alone the relay or fuel pump. Double check this by going from the black/red wire side of the fuse to the frame (ground). If you read a voltage, good, check the relay, if you don't, follow the below...

The continuity test you did also implies that the connection isn't perfect (if you put it in ohms you'll probably find there's some resistance too). But this could also be caused by dirty contacts, or even just not putting the multimeter probes on properly.

Trace the red/black wire back from the fuse box to the connectors behind the headstock, looking for breaks in the wire.

Check the headstock connector (black/red wire) to ground (in the 20v mode) you should find a voltage there. If you do, the problem is that black/red wire. If you don't, next check the orange wire (same connector) to ground.

If the orange-ground has a voltage, but the black/red-ground doesn't, then the fault is either the wiring coming from the ignition barrel or the inside of the ignition barrel. Either way you're probably looking at a new barrel (there's not much point in stripping them down - mainly because of what you have to do to get them back together).

ok, i took the reading again and got 10.5 when set to 20V and 3.4 when set to 20m.

when i tried to do the frame thing, i got nothing again, but back to doing the multi meter instead of the fuse thingy it gave the same readings.

just checked the reply and that is fine too.

OK, confirmation...

When testing the fuse holder to the frame, you got 0V (on the 20V setting)? Did you test both sides of the fuse holder (individually) to the frame? One side will give 0V, the other should give at least 8V minimum when the ignition is on (and kill switch not tripped).

You say the relay checks out fine, how did you check it?