Debrix damping emulator questions

Hey all,

Just about to fit some debrix emulators to my k1 curvy and there's a few bits I'm not sure on.

Can the org help???

I already have 0.95 k tech springs and 10w motul oil installed.

1. Damping rods need the bottom holes opening to 11mm and the top hole closed up (welding ect..)??

2. Do the top spacers need cutting down by the emulators depth to maintain the fork internals height??

3. What setting would you recommend on the emulators? ( complete turns in/out of the pre load screw ) given that I use 0.95 springs and 10w oil??

4. Would the emulators work better with heavier/lighter oil??

[MJC-DEV]

1. My damper rods were drilled to 10mm. Leaves a bit more metal remaining than 11mm. Top hole closed with Araldite Steel rapid epoxy.
2. Depends on sag required. Curvy owners need to advise here.
3. I used 2 turns (extra from just touching). Seems to be the most common road setting.
4. Generally thicker oil as it controls rebound. If you are happy with Motul 10w, then it will be pretty much the same as emulators do not change rebound damping (you do slightly by blocking up small rebound hole - see 1.) Silkolene RSF Pro 10w working well for me, this is slighely thicker than your Motul 10w (35 vs 47cst)

[yorkie_chris]

Drill to 10mm, weld up rebound hole.
Subtract emulator height from spacer length.
2 - 2.5 turns of preload
Try with your oil now if you're happy with it as it is, it will add rebound by closing hole. I would have guessed 15w oil but it depends what make of oil it is.

Cheers fellas, I'm going to replace the oil and dust seals for new when I install the dampers.

Should I replace the bushes as well?

[yorkie_chris]

No I wouldn't bother replacing any of that unless worn out.

Originally Posted by MJC-DEV

1. My damper rods were drilled to 10mm. Leaves a bit more metal remaining than 11mm. Top hole closed with Araldite Steel rapid epoxy.
2. Depends on sag required. Curvy owners need to advise here.
3. I used 2 turns (extra from just touching). Seems to be the most common road setting.
4. Generally thicker oil as it controls rebound. If you are happy with Motul 10w, then it will be pretty much the same as emulators do not change rebound damping (you do slightly by blocking up small rebound hole - see 1.) Silkolene RSF Pro 10w working well for me, this is slighely thicker than your Motul 10w (35 vs 47cst)

so let me get this straight -

1. rebound damping is controlled by the oil (weight)?

2. compression damping is controlled by the emulator?

or does the emulator control both rebound and compression via the oil (weight) flowing though it?

3. sag is determined by the air gap?

4. the more preload on the emulator spring, the more the damping effect?

[yorkie_chris]

Rebound is controlled by oil weight, emu has no effect on rebound because it has check valve that opens on rebound.
comp damping is controlled by emu, add preload on emu to get more comp damping.

Sag is determined by preload on main spring. Air gap determines stiffness in bottom of stroke, change it to control bottoming resistance.

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

Rebound is controlled by oil weight, emu has no effect on rebound because it has check valve that opens on rebound.
comp damping is controlled by emu, add preload on emu to get more comp damping.

Sag is determined by preload on main spring. Air gap determines stiffness in bottom of stroke, change it to control bottoming resistance.

Ahh, makes sense now.

So the air gap does not determine the sag, the pre load via the top spacers and spring rating does?

When I stripped my forks down last night I realised one spacer is shorter than the other????? Wtf??

Good job I'm cutting them down.

[johnnyrod]

It'll feel better just for that then! You can fit the adjuster tops to your forks y'know.

Dunno about Debrix but the Racetech emus have a small hole as well, so low-speed comp damping is controlled that way (i.e. oil thickness), high speed by the spring valve.

Odds are you'll get it all fitted, go for a ride, and wonder why it feels the same (not much/any stiffer). Try riding it over roads that appear to have been done with a cheese grater and you'll find out (so Rotherham then).

Originally Posted by johnnyrod

It'll feel better just for that then! You can fit the adjuster tops to your forks y'know.

Dunno about Debrix but the Racetech emus have a small hole as well, so low-speed comp damping is controlled that way (i.e. oil thickness), high speed by the spring valve.

Odds are you'll get it all fitted, go for a ride, and wonder why it feels the same (not much/any stiffer). Try riding it over roads that appear to have been done with a cheese grater and you'll find out (so Rotherham then).

Don't know about Rotherham mate, Sheffield roads are like one big 4x4 track!!!

Which adjuster tops fit? Ones from pointys?