New brake lines?

[DomP]

Well I suppose my MOT tester did tell me my brake efficiency was better than his GSXR track bike - bit odd considering the calipers on that!
In all honesty I think I'm bored and was looking for a job on my bike

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[R1ffR4ff]

Originally Posted by DomP

Well I suppose my MOT tester did tell me my brake efficiency was better than his GSXR track bike - bit odd considering the calipers on that!
In all honesty I think I'm bored and was looking for a job on my bike

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Heh Heh.P*SS poor rainy day here in Hull.Went in the garage and found some slack in the Clutch actuator arm toothed locking thingy on the shaft(Technical term) and tightened and re-adjusted gear lever angle for me foot.

When I got my SV had I had trouble getting neutral at the,"Lights".After reading the,"Clutch Mantra" on the Yankee site got it much better but knew I could improve it.

Here's my take.

The clutch system on the SVs is very sensitive from the cable down to the gear change and clutch actuator.They all gotta be tight and right.

Also I remember many years ago at a bike stop a Lady SV owner had dropped her SV off-stand on the left hand side and was telling me and the other guys she had started to have big problems with gear shifts so the left-hand side of the SVs is weak-spot if you drop the bike that side.

Crash bobbins might help but on my old CXs the,"Engine Bar/Protectors" were a godsend.Not only for saving the cylinders(They are like a Motoguzzi) they also saved my leg when I laid the bike down on a roundabout(Slow speed,diesel and rain patch).
The bars formed a triangle of protection between my leg,the road and the frame.

[aesmith]

Originally Posted by Tamsen Cooper

I went for HEL braided brake lines, and of course I made a video about it

Nicely made video. Did you fit any sort of guide for the lines on the bottom yoke, where the original lines were joined? Funny about the two different threads, all the info that I have seen suggests the front calipers are the same all the way from curvy to the last pointies (possibly even the new ones, since the pads are the same).

[Blapper]

Personally I believe it is a silly mistake to ditch the splitter and do that 'racing' thing <Rolls eyes>. All it means is your neat and tidy brakelines become untidy. I have rock hard brakes with the splitter intact.

"be careful of Placebo affects and confirmation bias" Rarely a truer word spoken and it applies to all things.

[aesmith]

If I understand correctly the reason for the "race" configuration is that race bikes aren't allowed to have a joint below the steering. If that's the case then presumably the curvy would comply as standard, but not the pointy where the three lines joint on the fork lower.

[Dave-the-rave]

Placebo effect aside, if the old rubber lines are noticeably flexing in the hand then steel lines, or new rubber lines will be an improvement. The old lines will flex more on a hot day when they're softer. That means inconsistent braking depending on the weather.

[aesmith]

Originally Posted by Blapper

Personally I believe it is a silly mistake to ditch the splitter and do that 'racing' thing <Rolls eyes>. All it means is your neat and tidy brakelines become untidy. I have rock hard brakes with the splitter intact.

The neat way on a pointy might be to fit a hose guide on the left hand side of the lower yoke, matching the one on the right. And one on the right hand fork lower where the OEM splitter fitted, fit a hose guide matching the one on the left fork. Parts 6, 7 and 8 from Diagram
Maybe commodity P clips could be fitted instead. Either way each line would have a guide at the yoke and one on the fork. I'm starting to think that could be quite neat.