Replacing Fork Springs, Advice Needed.

[ste12100]

Howdy all, I'm, looking to replace the springs and oil in my forks (k5).

I've noticed the forks have little rush spots on the silver part, is there away to get these off? As i'm assuming when i pump the forks to get the last of the oil out it will damage the seals.

Thanks.

[Bibio]

depends where the rust spots are. if they are tiny spots then cardboard and autosol will do the job. go gentle and you must polish round the way and never up/down.

TBH if your not stripping them down (i would recommend you do, to weld the rebound holes up) then pour some paraffin in the forks and pump/slosh a bit then tip the rest out and leave upside down for 1/2hr.

a pic of the rust might help.

[ste12100]

Originally Posted by Bibio

depends where the rust spots are. if they are tiny spots then cardboard and autosol will do the job. go gentle and you must polish round the way and never up/down.

TBH if your not stripping them down (i would recommend you do, to weld the rebound holes up) then pour some paraffin in the forks and pump/slosh a bit then tip the rest out and leave upside down for 1/2hr.

a pic of the rust might help.

Being an idiot i just realised the rust is actually above the part where the forks are mounted to the frame, so in theory the fork shouldn't go that far in.

Just wondering, does just changing the oil make a difference? I feel i'm, easily able to push the front down, (i'm 13.5 stone 85kg) would just changing the oil to 15w make a difference.

I'm trying to limit how much i spend on it, as i've recently passed my A licence up from an A2, so i'll probably look to change it next season.(I'm putting new tyres and possible chain on it already, so i thought while the wheels are off i could look at the folks)

[proze]

I treated these with very fine sandpaper, then 0000 steel wool, then parts cleaner, then Kurust, then autosol. And from now on wipe the chrome down with oil or wd40 whenever I lube the chain.

[Bibio]

do not put 15w oil in.

the standard oil is like **** water so replacing with silkolene 10w would be a good choice. new springs for your weight would be an even better choice as well as oil.

[ste12100]

Originally Posted by Bibio

do not put 15w oil in.

the standard oil is like **** water so replacing with silkolene 10w would be a good choice. new springs for your weight would be an even better choice as well as oil.

Ah ok, chees for the advice. Is there a graph or calculator for whcih springs to get based on weight?

[Bibio]

0.9 springs and 10w silkolene rsf oil. weld the rebound holes up and it should be pretty spot on. dont use any other oil than silkolene rsf as they are not the same CST@40c.

[ste12100]

Originally Posted by Bibio

0.9 springs and 10w silkolene rsf oil. weld the rebound holes up and it should be pretty spot on. dont use any other oil than silkolene rsf as they are not the same CST@40c.

Thanks, out of curiosity is there a guide to the closing the rebound holes? Also what does closing them do?

[Bibio]

dont know if there is a guide.

the check valves in the SV forks leak like a sieve so in order to increase the rebound dampening you have to weld the rebound holes up. if you dont do this the rebound on the forks stays sloppy. the rebound is responsible for the rocking horse effect when you are riding along the road.

[ste12100]

Originally Posted by Bibio

dont know if there is a guide.

the check valves in the SV forks leak like a sieve so in order to increase the rebound dampening you have to weld the rebound holes up. if you dont do this the rebound on the forks stays sloppy. the rebound is responsible for the rocking horse effect when you are riding along the road.

O, yeah I need to do that. I’ve been looking around, i’ve never welded anything, can i use jb weld?
Also after looking around, do I need to drill any additional holes or anything?

Or do i just strip them down, get new springs, full holes.
Then put them back together with the new oil?