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Old 03-05-16, 03:21 PM   #11
mikerj
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Default Re: Trouble removing the exhaust

That could be fairly easily TIG welded in situ, and then drilled out and tapped.
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Old 04-05-16, 06:23 AM   #12
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Default Re: Trouble removing the exhaust

What a *** ! I think you can say as many **********s as you like after something like that happens!

Just remember things can happen to the most experienced mechanics and it is recovery from these situations that adds to your knowledge.

I am thinking that if a repair is possible it would be much easier to achieve if the head was on the bench so I would approach an engineering workshop with the pic and see if they would take on the job. I would then take the head off and give it to them for a repair. Hope you get it sorted.
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Old 04-05-16, 09:03 AM   #13
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Default Re: Trouble removing the exhaust

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Originally Posted by Fen Tiger View Post
I am thinking that if a repair is possible it would be much easier to achieve if the head was on the bench so I would approach an engineering workshop with the pic and see if they would take on the job. I would then take the head off and give it to them for a repair. Hope you get it sorted.
If a replacement head is £20 this isn't really worthwhile, as all the work and expense is in taking it off and putting it back.

So the options are fix in situ or replace head.

I'd definitely try to fix in situ but on the other hand replacing it might be out of comfort zone, but you'll learn a lot
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Old 04-05-16, 12:36 PM   #14
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Default Re: Trouble removing the exhaust

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Originally Posted by ophic View Post
If a replacement head is £20 this isn't really worthwhile, as all the work and expense is in taking it off and putting it back.

So the options are fix in situ or replace head.

I'd definitely try to fix in situ but on the other hand replacing it might be out of comfort zone, but you'll learn a lot
A replacement head is around £100. And the usual way of learning is by rectifying your mistakes. Head off job has a large scope for mistake.

I'm not saying couldn't, shouldn't or wouldn't. I'm
Just laying it all out there.
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Old 06-11-18, 04:28 PM   #15
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Default Re: Trouble removing the exhaust

>>> Resurrecting a thread that is a couple of years old instead of starting a new one and cluttering the archives. Hope that's ok.

///


Doing the "quick" job of removing the exhaust on my K8 pointy so that I can drop the swingarm out and check bearings before replacing rear shock as suggested by several people on here.
I'm in the classic situation of having one bolt sheared off at the header.
I'm currently on day 2 of lying under the bike swearing on a cold garage floor with neck ache.






I have the offer of welding a nut to it from my metal fabricator neighbors at my workshop. Only problem is the bike is at home (4 mile from workshop), with lots of parts removed, inc exhaust (nearly), rear wheel / brake etc, front sprocket (to remove chain and then wheel), clutch actuator (to remove front sprocket) and all bolts cracked loose on suspension etc in preparation for the "simple" job of removing the swingarm.


It's been suggested I try the welding nut on technique while there's still a small amount of thread to work with rather than going straight for drilling and bolt extractors etc that might fail and make a mess.








If I can get the last parts free and then reassemble into a rideable state I might do that. Otherwise I have no way of moving it. My van is too small.


Couple of Qs. In the photos above I'm guessing the copper coloured ring is the gasket and it needs removing? It's not a small copper ring, but quite deep (about 4mm), more like the aluminium ones but is copper coloured. Slightly confusing. Either way, it is welded in there and not coming out. Just checking it is a gasket before I start chiseling away at it / dremeling it?


Also have one of the bolts holding the collector are of the exhaust that has started to come undone and is now suddenly spinning freely without undoing any more. I'm guessing it bolts in to a captive nut in the bracket that has come loose and is spinning no longer allowing the bolt to undo? See pic below. Any advice on this other than what I'm thinking ... I need to cut the bolt now? Bit worried this will leave a nut with part of bolt stuck inside the exhaust bracket next to the collector box, making impossible to reattach?




Lastly... the soft plastic / rubber section inside the exhaust pipe where the header downpipe slots in... is this a shim or just the shape left by some sealant? Should I be cutting it out and using new sealant? Or keep it to slide back into when reassembling? The end of it is deteriorating. See pic below.



Last edited by Adam Ef; 06-11-18 at 04:31 PM.
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Old 06-11-18, 04:42 PM   #16
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Default Re: Trouble removing the exhaust

from what i remember the bolts are stainless steel so you would need to use TIG to weld a nut on. personally i would just bite the bullet and drill it out going up in stages till only a little meat if left then wind it out hopefully leaving the thread intact. dont use cheep bits buy proper SS bits and SS cutting paste or you will blunt the bits. there is a cheat... once you get a decent hole in the bolt thread you can whack a star bit into the hole and use a windy gun to do the rest.

as for the copper bit then yes it is a gasket which means the original ones have been replaced at some point as the original ones are aluminium sandwich.

if the bolt is just turning in the captive nut then just punch it out from the back instead of trying to cut it out.

the gasket in the mid pipes are collars and if damaged then need to be replaced.. kerching.....
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Old 06-11-18, 04:43 PM   #17
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Default Re: Trouble removing the exhaust

Regarding the broken stud: have you considered left hand drill bits? The act of drilling with such a bit will (sometimes) unscrew the stud.

Regarding the non captive collector nut: can't you jam a screwdriver in there to stop it rotating?
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Old 06-11-18, 04:49 PM   #18
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Default Re: Trouble removing the exhaust

Cheers Bibio.
They can do MIG, TIG, brazing, work with Ti and all sorts so should be fine to get something fixed on... if I can get it there. If it fails I can still try drilling etc. They seem quite confident that they've done it a lot and offered to help. My decision is now is it more hassle to tray and reassemble to get it there or more hassle to try drilling it myself.



There's no access from the back on that bolt? It screws into a small box on the bracket that I assume the captive nut is held inside?


The collar pictured is all good apart from the degradation on that end couple of millimetres. Guessing its still ok to use? Do you use any sealant reassembling exhausts at the joins, or at the header or just allow the gasket to do it's job there?
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Old 06-11-18, 04:52 PM   #19
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Default Re: Trouble removing the exhaust

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Originally Posted by Seeker View Post
Regarding the broken stud: have you considered left hand drill bits? The act of drilling with such a bit will (sometimes) unscrew the stud.

Regarding the non captive collector nut: can't you jam a screwdriver in there to stop it rotating?

I have some bolt extractors that are left hand threading, but need pilots drilling first and even then they are notorious for breaking off themselves, leaving a very hard to drill out section stuck in the bolt, making the job harder.


I have some small metal plate offcuts I'm going to try and slip into the very small gap under the captive nut to jam it in place and try and undo the bolt.
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Old 06-11-18, 05:08 PM   #20
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Default Re: Trouble removing the exhaust

if there is no access then its a case of junior hacksaw/dremel time. i personally would use a junior. cut between the rubber and the exhaust bracket. it'll only take 5min. dont cut the head off the bolt as it will leave you with a long stud. or as seeker said jam a blade screwdriver in there.

with the gaskets collars being that old i would use a very light smear of assembly paste putting it back together.

as you have said.. dont use an easy out on the broken bolt. if you can get a nut welded on there then thats the best action to take. there are mobile companies that specialise in stud extraction but it costs a fair old whack but might be better than messing about.
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