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Old 05-06-18, 06:57 AM   #1
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Kings Lynn area
Posts: 123
Default R/R fail. Replaced but no spark... help please.

Ride 1... blew a headlight bulb.
Ride 2... friend spots surging number plate bulbs.
Ride 3... a short ride but fine.
Ride 4 (attempt) 2 days later... battery completely dead.

Charged battery all day, still dead.

Symptoms above suggest to me R/R fail. So i replace the R/R with a mosfet upgrade unit and the battery with a new motobatt.

The bike now cranks but wont start.

I've checked all relevant wiring and fuses. Getting 13v to HT caps with ignition on. Plugs are getting wet so fuel isn't an issue. I replaced the plugs for new and still no spark. I also swapped the CDI for a known working item, still no spark.

So now I'm thinking pulse generator coil. Thoughts?

Any help would be much appreciated
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Old 05-06-18, 07:35 AM   #2
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Shropshire UK
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Default Re: R/R fail. Replaced but no spark... help please.

Excess voltage could have blown just about anything, 13 volts at HT cap may be be blown coil insulation.
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Old 05-06-18, 08:32 AM   #3
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Default Re: R/R fail. Replaced but no spark... help please.

Have you tested the Spark Plug caps.They come stock at 5k ohm resistance.Anything above 8k ohm and I replace them.
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Old 05-06-18, 09:26 AM   #4
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: NE Lincs
Posts: 456
Default Re: R/R fail. Replaced but no spark... help please.

Is this a curvy?

You can measure the resistance of the CPS 140-230 ohm between green and white (when disconnected from loom) and open circuit white to ground. In theory with a peak hold meter, you could measure the voltage output when cranking, Suzuki say 3v pk (it's hard with a meter though).

Here's a simple circuit for a CPS checker (via svrider via a triumph site)

The ignition coil primary resistance is 3.5-5.5 ohm and the secondary through via plug cap is 20-31 kohms (wide tolerance!)

If it's a curvy, then check the orange/red wire at the igniter and see if it's got 6V and the orange/white has 12V (measure between o/w and black/white)
The igniter grounds each coil to fire it, so there should be 12V on the primary of both coils assuming the stop switch is on and the sidestand relay has been energised and the ignition switch is on, main fuse and 10A fuse are intact.

If it's not a curvy, I've wasted both our times.

Last edited by Seeker; 05-06-18 at 09:32 AM.
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