I'm literally going round in circles.....in the shed :( - SV650.org

05-01-06, 09:14 PM

Stripping forks this week to replace a stanchion. Did my oil seals while I'm at it.

First fork was a breeze, like I was graced with the 'Hand of Haynes' to guide me.

The bottom bolt came out without fuss, swapped seal, filled with oil and the new Ohlins spring (gives a nod to Admin, ta) and Bob's indeed my uncle.

The other one had left me wishing I hadn't started (except I really need to replace that slider on this one....). Yep, it's that damn bolt. It's freed up a tad, but I guess the old thread lock is doing it's job and the internal damper rod is turning inside.

How can i grip it? I've tried the broom handle trick, to no avail, it still spins. Anyone else been in this mess?

Sid Squid · 05-01-06, 10:10 PM

Shape the end of your broom handle to suit the recess in the top of the damper rod, in practise unless you know the size of the hex - and I can't remember - that means putting a coarse taper on it, hammer it in by inverting the fork and tapping the end of the pole on the ground, if you can remove the pole easily and it's not taking the shape of the hex on the end then it's probably too narrow.

Hold the pole with a pair of grips and you should be able to remove the damper rod bolt.

johnnyrod · 06-01-06, 12:25 PM

My damper rod bolts came out no problem but my mate's were jammed solid, no amount of broom-handling worked. In the end we had to take the forks to a shop with a holding tool to get them started, only took them a few minutes of course.

06-01-06, 01:12 PM

If the broom handle wont work, take them to a local garage and try using an air impact wrench on them - this should shake the threadlock loose. Of course you will need a suitable 1/2" drive allen key.

johnnyrod · 10-01-06, 10:21 AM

I'd be a bit wary of that one, the problem haggis has is the bolts locked into the rod bottom ends so the whole rod is turning. The top end of the damper rod (where the holding tool goes) is circular, i.e. no teeth/flats etc. Dunno how the holding tool works but it does. I think if you used an air gun it might spin the rods a bit much and coule damage the piston rings - or it might work!

10-01-06, 06:50 PM

Managed to do it in the end!

The broom handle trick works when the profile is right, I will get some dimensions down for future ref. and edit this post.

However it took the effort of two people to break the thread-lock.

Quick run down....
Remove usual fork internals.
Shape your broom handle. TIP: A big deck broom is best as they have wider 1"+ handles to grip.
Position the broom vertically on the floor, gripping the brush between your feet to stop it spinning.
Slip your fork down the handle until the pointy end sits in the damper rod.
Get a mate to hang off the fork outer gripping the caliper mounts.
Use a pipe on the end of your allen key for leverage.
Laugh as your mate spins round the shed at your command.
The bolt will 'let go' with a loud crack pretty quickly and it's hand tight from there on.

Job (half) done.

They're now in the shed awaiting re-fitment.

10-01-06, 07:43 PM

Off topic(ish), is it easy to replace the fork seals?

10-01-06, 09:40 PM

Ash, it's the same procedure. You need to remove the stanchion to replace the seal so my advice is check over the internals for wear etc. while you're at it.

It seems to be 50/50 on whether you have the allen bolt removal nightmare.

05-01-06, 09:14 PM	#1
haggis Guest Posts: n/a	I'm literally going round in circles.....in the shed :( Stripping forks this week to replace a stanchion. Did my oil seals while I'm at it. First fork was a breeze, like I was graced with the 'Hand of Haynes' to guide me. The bottom bolt came out without fuss, swapped seal, filled with oil and the new Ohlins spring (gives a nod to Admin, ta) and Bob's indeed my uncle. The other one had left me wishing I hadn't started (except I really need to replace that slider on this one....). Yep, it's that damn bolt. It's freed up a tad, but I guess the old thread lock is doing it's job and the internal damper rod is turning inside. How can i grip it? I've tried the broom handle trick, to no avail, it still spins. Anyone else been in this mess?

05-01-06, 10:10 PM	#2
Sid Squid No, I don't lend tools. Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Skunk Works, Nth London Posts: 8,680	Shape the end of your broom handle to suit the recess in the top of the damper rod, in practise unless you know the size of the hex - and I can't remember - that means putting a coarse taper on it, hammer it in by inverting the fork and tapping the end of the pole on the ground, if you can remove the pole easily and it's not taking the shape of the hex on the end then it's probably too narrow. Hold the pole with a pair of grips and you should be able to remove the damper rod bolt. __________________ If an SV650 has a flat tyre in the forest and no-one is there to blow it up, how long will it be 'til someone posts that the reg/rec is duff and the world will end unless a CBR unit is fitted? A little bit of knowledge = a dangerous thing. "a deathless anthem of nuclear-strength romantic angst"

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
throw some bikes at me (not literally, well not unless i can keep it)	Wideboy	Bikes - Talk & Issues	59	06-10-08 01:31 AM
Crash.NET - Stoner 'in circles'.	NewsBot	News	0	21-09-07 10:50 AM
Shed!	phil24_7	Idle Banter	1	02-07-07 09:21 PM
Round a round a roundabout and then I fell off	falc	Bikes - Talk & Issues	24	10-04-06 12:28 PM
my new baba aswell. literally	adey	Photos	6	21-11-05 07:24 PM

06-01-06, 12:25 PM	#3
johnnyrod Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Doncaster, oop norf Posts: 2,122	My damper rod bolts came out no problem but my mate's were jammed solid, no amount of broom-handling worked. In the end we had to take the forks to a shop with a holding tool to get them started, only took them a few minutes of course.

06-01-06, 01:12 PM	#4
John Burt Guest Posts: n/a	If the broom handle wont work, take them to a local garage and try using an air impact wrench on them - this should shake the threadlock loose. Of course you will need a suitable 1/2" drive allen key.

10-01-06, 10:21 AM	#5
johnnyrod Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Doncaster, oop norf Posts: 2,122	I'd be a bit wary of that one, the problem haggis has is the bolts locked into the rod bottom ends so the whole rod is turning. The top end of the damper rod (where the holding tool goes) is circular, i.e. no teeth/flats etc. Dunno how the holding tool works but it does. I think if you used an air gun it might spin the rods a bit much and coule damage the piston rings - or it might work!

10-01-06, 06:50 PM	#6
haggis Guest Posts: n/a	Managed to do it in the end! The broom handle trick works when the profile is right, I will get some dimensions down for future ref. and edit this post. However it took the effort of two people to break the thread-lock. Quick run down.... Remove usual fork internals. Shape your broom handle. TIP: A big deck broom is best as they have wider 1"+ handles to grip. Position the broom vertically on the floor, gripping the brush between your feet to stop it spinning. Slip your fork down the handle until the pointy end sits in the damper rod. Get a mate to hang off the fork outer gripping the caliper mounts. Use a pipe on the end of your allen key for leverage. Laugh as your mate spins round the shed at your command. The bolt will 'let go' with a loud crack pretty quickly and it's hand tight from there on. Job (half) done. They're now in the shed awaiting re-fitment.

10-01-06, 07:43 PM	#7
svrash Guest Posts: n/a	Off topic(ish), is it easy to replace the fork seals?

10-01-06, 09:40 PM	#8
haggis Guest Posts: n/a	Ash, it's the same procedure. You need to remove the stanchion to replace the seal so my advice is check over the internals for wear etc. while you're at it. It seems to be 50/50 on whether you have the allen bolt removal nightmare.