Looking to buy a DSLR camera.

Originally Posted by Brettus

Yes to all, the "cable release" remotes (they still come cabled although you can get IR but I prefer to have it cabled TBH cost a couple of pounds off ebay and given that it is just a switch on a wire you can cheap out on them

Just had a look at them, slightly different to the one I used to use. Had to push the trigger in and turn a screw to hold it for the duration of the exposure!

Originally Posted by Bluepete

For a really good interval release, timer and remote control, look at Triggertrap. It's a phone/tablet app that connects to the camera. You can do all sorts of clever exposures like start trail, auto HDR bracketing and much more. It can even be triggered by sound.

The app is free, the connector costs and is on Amazon. I also bought a 20ft extension so I can do star trails in winter from inside!

Pete

I'll bear this in mind too although I couldn't find the adapter for sale anywhere to weigh up the price. The 20ft extension sounds sensible but I suppose to get decent skies I'll have to be out in the sticks anyway.

[Bluepete]

Originally Posted by dirtyred619

Just had a look at them, slightly different to the one I used to use. Had to push the trigger in and turn a screw to hold it for the duration of the exposure!



I'll bear this in mind too although I couldn't find the adapter for sale anywhere to weigh up the price. The 20ft extension sounds sensible but I suppose to get decent skies I'll have to be out in the sticks anyway.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_...ds=Triggertrap

Originally Posted by Bluepete

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_...ds=Triggertrap

Cheers I saw those but it didn't mention trigger trap in the description so wasn't sure. Will certainly have a look at this once I'm all set up.

Originally Posted by Brettus

I disagree with Mark here, I had a bridge camera before I changed to a DSLR and I've still not rivalled some of the pictures I took with it. The main thing about a decent bridge camera (especially if it does RAW) is that it is a pretty comprehensive "kit" in itself some of them now cater to ranges from 24-1200! try to kit a DSLR out with that kind of range and you'll carry 3-4 lenses and spend a fortune getting them.

The lenses aren't nearly as good for shallow depth of field but that only really comes into it when you start trying to be particularly creative. For a quality re-production of events or places you have been then a bridge can be a great option. Mine had the option of 15 second long exposures so I could do a fair amount of night shots and things with that.

The bridge camera I had is currently the one making it's way around the globe as part of the OTaL experiment (Canon S3IS)

One point to mention, I had a friend with a Fuji bridge camera and he hated it, image was constantly muddy but I really liked my canon bridge. I guess that is why Fuji are always at the cheaper end of the bridge market. With cameras you DO get what you pay for, regardless of type.

There is a good reason for that, the more glass you have in front of the sensor (film gate) the more distorited the image will become. Hence why prime lens are used, or top end quality zoom lens. Thats why cameras such Red, Alexa use IRND filters, again to reduce the glass in front of the camera.

So a set of Ziess Comapct primes on EF mount is about 30k a set or £225 a day to rent plus vat. The Cannon primes are about 15k to buy, but the speed of lens vary across the range. Just go give you an idea, what things cost.

Also people are getting hung up on resolution, don't just think dam that 21MP over that camera which 18MP whats more important is the size of pixles the bigger the pixel the more light sensitve its is. If you want something like shallow depth of field, fast lens with ND filters is the way I would shoot.

Just work on the basic, loads of people don't know how to frame, get a shot in focus ect then don't do anything else until you can. Well I have one day to prep before my next shoot

[NTECUK]

The DSLR would be better if you want the hassle but I just want a good point and shoot .
I'm liking the FinePix HS20 EXR
if i caould get anywere close to Kenzie pics I will be happy

[Kenzie]

Here is one I really like from my HS10



This one is processed with AutoHDR



Sorry to post up snaps, Bridge cameras can be pretty good when you realise their limits.

[NTECUK]

Well got a win on fleabay for the HS20 .
So will see how i get on for now

[Kenzie]

Originally Posted by NTECUK

Well got a win on fleabay for the HS20 .
So will see how i get on for now

With a 16mp EXR sensor over the HS10s 10mp the quality should be good. I have read they improved the AF and write times on this as well. Get some snaps up!

[Ch00]

Originally Posted by Bluepete

For a really good interval release, timer and remote control, look at Triggertrap. It's a phone/tablet app that connects to the camera. You can do all sorts of clever exposures like start trail, auto HDR bracketing and much more. It can even be triggered by sound.

The app is free, the connector costs and is on Amazon. I also bought a 20ft extension so I can do star trails in winter from inside!

Pete

Dam you BP, I love a gadget. Mines on the way !!!

Ordered my 1100D on Tuesday, came yesterday. Only had a little play with it so far, it's a great step back into the (D)SLR world. Figured out the settings for the things I want to do first like HDR and Astrophotography. I guess this is where it starts getting even more expensive, already ordered a tripod and a cheap cable release today and looking for a carry case now! Will look at Triggertrap further down the line though.

Any suggestions for cheap/free software for combining the HDR images?